DIYstompboxes wiki - User contributions [en]

LM386

2011-10-27T14:47:46Z

Egasimus:

{{Pinout8|LM386|Gain|In -|In +|Ground|Out|V+|Bypass|Gain}}
The '''LM386''', a.k.a. '''JRC386''', a.k.a. '''NJM386''' is a low-power amplifier chip. It is able to directly drive a small speaker, and is thus used in a number of battery-powered practice amp designs.

==Models==
{|class="wikitable"
|-
|Chip Name
|Supply Voltage
|Min. Output Power
|Typical Output Power
|-
|'''LM386N-1'''||4-12 V||250 mW||325 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-3'''||4-12 V||500 mW||700 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-4'''||5-18 V||700 mW||1000 mW
|-
|}

==Voltage reference trick==
The LM386 has a self-centering output voltage. In other words, if there's no signal at it inputs, its output sits at half the supply voltage. Because of this, the 386 can be used as a source of a buffered [[bias voltage]] in stompbox circuits.

==Used in==
* [[Little Gem]] - portable amp
* [[Marshall]] [[MS-2]] and [[MS-4]] portable amps - use a [[SIL]]-packaged NJM386
* [[Ruby Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Smokey Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Uglyface]] - distortion/noisemaker

{{ICs}}

LM386

2011-10-21T12:08:13Z

Egasimus:

{{Pinout8|LM386|Gain|In -|In +|Ground|Out|V+|Bypass|Gain}}
The '''LM386''', a.k.a. '''JRC386''', a.k.a. '''NJM386'' is a low-power amplifier chip. It is able to directly drive a small speaker, and is thus used in a number of battery-powered practice amp designs.

==Models==
{|class="wikitable"
|-
|Chip Name
|Supply Voltage
|Min. Output Power
|Typical Output Power
|-
|'''LM386N-1'''||4-12 V||250 mW||325 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-3'''||4-12 V||500 mW||700 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-4'''||5-18 V||700 mW||1000 mW
|-
|}

==Voltage reference trick==
The LM386 has a self-centering output voltage. In other words, if there's no signal at it inputs, its output sits at half the supply voltage. Because of this, the 386 can be used as a source of a buffered [[bias voltage]] in stompbox circuits.

==Used in==
* [[Little Gem]] - portable amp
* [[Marshall]] [[MS-2]] and [[MS-4]] portable amps - use a [[SIL]]-packaged NJM386
* [[Ruby Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Smokey Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Uglyface]] - distortion/noisemaker

{{ICs}}

LM386

2011-10-21T12:06:58Z

Egasimus:

{{Pinout8|LM386|Gain|In -|In +|Ground|Out|V+|Bypass|Gain}}
The '''LM386''', a.k.a. '''JRC386''', is a low-power amplifier chip. It is able to directly drive a small speaker, and is thus used in a number of battery-powered practice amp designs.

==Models==
{|class="wikitable"
|-
|Chip Name
|Supply Voltage
|Min. Output Power
|Typical Output Power
|-
|'''LM386N-1'''||4-12 V||250 mW||325 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-3'''||4-12 V||500 mW||700 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-4'''||5-18 V||700 mW||1000 mW
|-
|}

==Voltage reference trick==
The LM386 has a self-centering output voltage. In other words, if there's no signal at it inputs, its output sits at half the supply voltage. Because of this, the 386 can be used as a source of a buffered [[bias voltage]] in stompbox circuits.

==Used in==
* [[Little Gem]] - portable amp
* [[Ruby Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Smokey Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Uglyface]] - distortion/noisemaker

{{ICs}}

LM386

2011-10-21T12:06:16Z

Egasimus:

{{Pinout8|LM386|Gain|In -|In +|Ground|Out|V+|Bypass|Gain}}
The '''LM386''', a.k.a. '''JRC386''', is a low-power amplifier chip. It is able to directly drive a small speaker, and is thus used in a number of battery-powered practice amp designs.

==Models==
{|class="wikitable"
|-
|Chip Name
|Min Voltage
|Max Voltage
|Minimum Output Power
|Typical Output Power
|-
|'''LM386N-1'''||4 V||12 V||250 mW||325 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-3'''||4 V||12 V||500 mW||700 mW
|-
|'''LM386N-4'''||5 V||18 V||700 mW||1000 mW
|-
|}

==Voltage reference trick==
The LM386 has a self-centering output voltage. In other words, if there's no signal at it inputs, its output sits at half the supply voltage. Because of this, the 386 can be used as a source of a buffered [[bias voltage]] in stompbox circuits.

==Used in==
* [[Little Gem]] - portable amp
* [[Ruby Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Smokey Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Uglyface]] - distortion/noisemaker

{{ICs}}

LM386

2011-10-21T12:04:40Z

Egasimus:

{{Pinout8|LM386|Gain|In -|In +|Ground|Out|V+|Bypass|Gain}}
The '''LM386''' is a low-power amplifier chip. It is able to directly drive a small speaker, and is thus used in a number of battery-powered practice amp designs.

==Voltage reference trick==
The LM386 has a self-centering output voltage. In other words, if there's no signal at it inputs, its output sits at half the supply voltage. Because of this, the 386 can be used as a source of a buffered [[bias voltage]] in stompbox circuits.

==Used in==
* [[Little Gem]] - portable amp
* [[Ruby Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Smokey Amp]] - portable amp
* [[Uglyface]] - distortion/noisemaker

{{ICs}}

JRC386

2011-10-21T12:04:15Z

Egasimus: moved 386 to JRC386

386

2011-10-21T12:04:15Z

Egasimus: moved 386 to JRC386

#REDIRECT [[JRC386]]

JRC386

2011-10-21T12:03:51Z

Egasimus: moved LM386 to 386

LM386

2011-10-21T12:03:51Z

Egasimus: moved LM386 to 386

#REDIRECT [[386]]

Micro Synthesizer

2011-10-06T17:37:49Z

Egasimus:

The '''[[Electro-Harmonix|EHX]] Micro Synthesizer''' is a fully analog [[guitar synthesizer]]. It can generate signals one octave above and below the original input signal, as well as a square wave at the frequency of the input. The mixed signals are then run through a [[slow attack]] effect and a swept [[resonant filter]] to produce tones reminiscent of analog keyboard synthesizers.

== Schematic ==
*[http://www.harpamps.com/schematics/gsynth1.pdf Pt.1 - Input, square wave, octave]
*[http://www.harpamps.com/schematics/gsynth2.pdf Pt.2 - Sub-octave, filter, slow attack, output]
*[http://www.harpamps.com/schematics/gsynth3.pdf Pt.3 - Power supply]

{{Electro-Harmonix}}
[[Category:Guitar and bass synths]]

Micro Synthesizer

2011-10-06T17:37:21Z

Egasimus:

The '''[[Electro-Harmonix|EXH]] Micro Synthesizer''' is a fully analog [[guitar synthesizer]]. It can generate signals one octave above and below the original input signal, as well as a square wave at the frequency of the input. The mixed signals are then run through a [[slow attack]] effect and a swept [[resonant filter]] to produce tones reminiscent of analog keyboard synthesizers.

== Schematic ==
*[http://www.harpamps.com/schematics/gsynth1.pdf Pt.1 - Input, square wave, octave]
*[http://www.harpamps.com/schematics/gsynth2.pdf Pt.2 - Sub-octave, filter, slow attack, output]
*[http://www.harpamps.com/schematics/gsynth3.pdf Pt.3 - Power supply]

{{Electro-Harmonix}}
[[Category:Guitar and bass synths]]

Talk:Colorsound Overdrive slacker

2011-10-06T17:24:38Z

Egasimus: Created page with "This is already on the Colorsound Overdriver page.--~~~~"

This is already on the [[Colorsound Overdriver]] page.--[[User:Egasimus|Egasimus]] 12:24, 6 October 2011 (CDT)

Colorsound Overdrive slacker

2011-10-06T17:24:15Z

Egasimus: Replaced content with "{{Delete}}"

Pedal-specific info

2011-10-06T08:38:11Z

Egasimus:

'''I'm adding these as I have time, grabbing photos from the photo page and overviews from whereever I can get them. Any help is ''greatly'' appreciated. - Dave_B'''

== Boosters ==
[[:Category:Boosters]]

== Overdrives ==
[[:Category:Overdrive]]
* [http://diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==25929 Fooltone] The pdf on page one is gone, but a good link to the schematic is on page two.

== Distortion ==
[[:Category:Distortion]]
* [[Big Muff Pi]] by [[Electro-Harmonix]]. Several versions of the BMP are here.
* [[Harmonic Percolator]] by [[Interfax]]
* [[Brown Sound In A Box II]]
* [[Dr. Boogey]] - Emulation of Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Solo Head

==== Aron Nelson ====
:''' Shaka Express ''' -- Hi-gain distortion with mid control.
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/ShakaExpress.pdf Shaka Express Schematic PDF] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/ExpressSim.mp3 - Sound Sample]

:''' Booster 2.5''' FET overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/booster25.JPG Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/boost25.mp3 - Sound Sample]

:''' Shaka HV''' Higher Voltage Overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/shakahv.jpg Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/hv30.mp3 - 30 volts low to medium drive sample] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/hv30UP.mp3 - 30 volts Hi-drive sample]

:'''Shaka Braddah 3''' Op amp->FET overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/shaka3.jpg Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/sb3AMP.mp3 - SB3->amp Sound Sample]

:'''Shaka Tube''' Low-voltage op amp->12AX7 overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==18369.0 Schematics] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/shakaTubeDemo.mp3 - Sound Sample]

==== Joe Davisson circuits ====
:''' Obsidian ''' -- Metal distortion with a BMP tone control.
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/obsidian.html Schematic]
:''' Vulcan '''
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/vulcan.html Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/Vulcan.mp3 - MP3 sound sample]
:''' Blackfire ''' --
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/blackfire.html Schematic]

==== CD4049 circuits: TSF, Red Llama, EH Hot Tubes, Hot Harmonics ... ====
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==45084.0 4049 distortion + opamp]

==== Insane and Novelty Distortion Circuits ====
''' Uglyface '''
* [http://home-wrecker.com/uglyface.html Building An Uglyface]

''' Skyripper ''' -- Quite Possibly The World's Greatest Fuzz
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/SkyripperSCHEM6-24.jpg Schematic]
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/Skyripper!picture.jpg Example build]
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/NewRip1.mp3 MP3 sample]

==== NVN Joe Gagan Fuzz Schematics ====
* ''' Bronto Boost ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Bronto_Boostv01.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv3.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv4.sized.gif]
* ''' Buffer ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/buff.sized.gif]
* ''' Decade ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Decade.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DecadePotDiagram.sized.gif]
* ''' Dino Drive ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoDrive.sized.gif]
* ''' Dino Fuzz Booster ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoFuzzBooster1.sized.gif]
* ''' Dinosaur Fuzz ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoFuzzGainPotMod.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinosaurFuzz_v2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinosaurFuzzv1.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoToneMod.sized.gif]
* ''' Easy Face ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacev1.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacev2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewBlendCap.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewGain_Mod.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewSwitchCap.sized.jpg]
* ''' Easy Ripper ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZRipper.jpg]
* ''' GT Fuz ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/GTFuzz.sized.jpg]
* ''' Input Bias Mod ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/InputBiasMod.jpg]
* ''' Lefty Idiot Wah ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/LeftyIdiotWah.gif]
* ''' Nitro Burner ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Nitroburner.sized.jpg]
* ''' Meterless Nitro Burner ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/NitroburnerNo_Meter.sized.gif]
* ''' Skyripper 1 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv1.sized.gif]
* ''' Skyripper 2 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv2.sized.jpg]
* ''' Skyripper 3 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv3.sized.jpg]
* ''' Tape Measure Boost ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TapeMeasureBoost.gif]
* ''' Tarpit Melt Down 2''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TarpitMeltdownv2.sized.gif]
* ''' Tarpit Melt Down 3 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TarpitMeltdownv3.sized.gif]
* ''' Tone Dog 1 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Tone_Dog1.sized.gif]
* ''' Tone Dog 2 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Tonedog2.sized.gif]

== Compressors ==
[[:Category:Compressors]]

Also see [http://www.muzique.com/news/compressor-placement-on-your-pedalboard/ AMZ-FX] for notes on where to place compressors in your effects chain.

== Phase Shifters ==
[[:Category:Phasers]]
For general information on phase shifters, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/phasers/phase.html Technology Of Phase Shifters and Flangers]" article by R.G. Keen.

====The Univibe and its workalikes ====
[[:Category:Univibe]]

== Flangers ==
[[:Category:Flangers]]

For general information on flangers, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/phasers/phase.html Technology Of Phase Shifters and Flangers]" article by R.G. Keen.

for a good article on songs that use a flanger, see [http://www.sourceaudio.net/blog/post/the-top-10-greatest-flange-effect-recordings-of-all-time/ www.sourceaduio.net]

== Chorus ==
[[:Category:Chorus]]

== Tremolo ==
[[:Category:Tremolo]]

== Equalizers ==
[[:Category:Equalizers and toneshapers]]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==RunOffGroove_MrEQ Run Off Groove's Mr. EQ]

== Octave Pedals ==
* [[Tycobrahe Octavia]]
* [[Green Ringer]]

== Bit Crushers ==
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~cwbarth/Nyquist/NyquistENV.gif Nyquist Aliaser]
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~cwbarth/Nyquist/ Extreme 8-bit-ish Sounds]

== Buffers / Splitters / Effects Loopers / Blenders ==
[[Category:Effect blenders]]

== Echo / Delay ==
[[:Category:Delay]]

== Wah Pedals ==
[[:Category:Wah]]
For general information on wah pedals, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/wahpedl/wahped.htm Technology Of Wah Pedals]" article by R.G. Keen.

Andreas Moller has comprehensive instructions on modifying wah pedals on his [http://stinkfoot.se/articles/modifications stinkfoot.se] site as does Paul Marossy at his [http://www.diyguitarist.com DIYguitarist.com] site and Stuart Castledine at the [http://www.wah-wah.co.uk/ wah-wah] site.

See also the [http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WAH-ARCHIVE_/WAH-SCHEMATICS/Wah_Comparisons.gif.html comparison of different wah pedals].

== Envelope Filters and Auto Wahs ==

For general information, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/ECFtech/ecftech.htm Technology of Auto-Wahs / Envelope-Controlled Filters]" article by R.G. Keen.

== Volume Pedals ==
* [[Anderton Volume Pedal]]

== Amps ==
[[:Category:Amplifiers]]

== Cab Simulators ==
[[:Category:Cabinet simulators]]

== Power Supplies ==
[[:Category:Power supplies]]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==Power_Supplies Misc Power Supplies]

== Leslie Speakers ==
Admittedly not a pedal, but a popular thing to plug a guitar into.
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==Leslie DIYS Wiki Leslie Page]

== Related Misc Projects ==
====== Condenser Mics ======
* [http://www.christianmusicweb.com/microphones/mic_project.html DIY Condenser Mic]
* [http://scotthelmke.com/alice-mic.html Scott Helmke's well regarded Alice Mic]
====== E-bow ======
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==34264 Pics and Schematic]
====== Scholz Rockman X100 ======
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==40856.0 Scans of the REV10 board with mods.]

== DIY Boxes, Mixers ==
''' Simple DIY box using op amps '''
* [http://colomar.com/Shavano/intro_opamp2.html Simple op amp DIY box]

== Bass Guitar Effects==
''' Bazz Fuss '''
* [http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html Building a Bazz Fuss]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==32572 Bazz Fuss Basics]

''' Gruntbox '''
* [http://ampage.org/hammer/files/Gruntbox.zip Schematic and Clip]

''' Paralooper (Bass FX loop) '''
* [[Paralooper]]

Hotcake

2011-10-06T08:37:40Z

Egasimus:

The '''Hotcake''' is an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opamp opamp] based overdrive designed by [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emlyn_Crowther Paul Crowther], one time drummer for the New Zealand band [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split_enz Split Enz]. It is well liked for being able to produce a range of tones from a clean boost through mild overdrive to all out distortion, and is reputed to sound very good with EL84 based amps and particularly with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VOX_AC30 VOX AC-30's].

Multiple revisions are available including the following:

* 1976 Circuit - Uses an LM741 Opamp and features a mid lift switch and two stage treble filtering (10k plus 10nF and 12nF). Apparently more "Marshally" sounding than later versions.
* 2003 Circuit - Uses a TL071 Opamp, replaces the switch with a presence pot, and uses single stage treble filtering (10k plus 22nF). Supposed to be "glassy" and "fendery" sounding.
* Bluesberry - Like the 2003 circuit but apparently "throatier" and "bluesier" sounding
* Post 2007 Circuit - Internally selectable between bluesberry and normal.
* Double Hotcake - Two hotcake circuits (one standard, one bluesberry) in one enclosure
* Quadruple Hotcake - At least one of these was made for the New Zealand band "[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_die_die Die Die Die]"
* XLF ("Extra Low Frequency") - A version for bass

The first versions used a simple grounding bypass, later versions have a relay based bypass. All versions can be built as true bypass.

== Schematics and Layouts ==

* [http://analogguru.an.ohost.de/ 1976 and 2003 circuit schematics]

== Sound and Video Clips ==

* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruSHcSjJn8M 2003 Circuit video]
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLyIVhtmHSg Bluesberry Video]

== Links ==

* [http://www.effectsdatabase.com/model/crowther/hotcake Effects Database]
* [http://www.listener.co.nz/issue/3331/features/1589/selling_like_hot_cakes.html Magazine article on Paul]
* [http://lite.amplifier.co.nz/default,43035.sm Hotcake Pedal T-Shirts]

== Gallery ==

Quadruple Hotcake
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v176/mr_sooty/Hotcake4002.jpg

DIY Hotcake Clone
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh126/roballey/Effects/Cool%20Muffin/CoolMuffin001.jpg

[[Category: Overdrive]]

Colorsound Overdriver

2011-10-06T08:36:40Z

Egasimus:

''From [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/overdrv.html S.Castledine's site]''

The Overdriver was introduced in the early '70s. I believe it was originally sold under the name "Power Boost". This pedal has been rereleased by [http://www.macaris.co.uk/ Macaris], who manufactured the original Sola Sound and Colorsound effects. [http://www.fuzzbox.com/ Prescription Electronics] also sell a copy, which they call the Rx Overdriver. There is a sound sample on their site.

The original Overdriver didn't have a volume control, so the output level was determined purely by the gain control. The reissues have a volume control as well, so I included one on my version. Up to a point, this circuit acts as a clean boost, but adds an edgy distortion when pushed.

== Schematic ==
[http://home.hawaii.rr.com/stompbox/CSOVR.JPG Schematic from Aron's site]

== Links ==
* [http://www.macaris.co.uk/product_type.asp?catID=5 Macari's - maker of the Colorsound product line]
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/overdrv.html S.Castledine's Overdriver Page]

== Gallery ==
Click on the links to view the original forum posts.

=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg347029#msg347029 Built by slacker] ===

http://www.eskimo.plus.com/fxstuff/csod.jpg

http://www.eskimo.plus.com/fxstuff/csod_guts.jpg

[[Category:Overdrive]]

Template:RunOffGroove

2011-10-06T08:35:53Z

Egasimus:

{{Navbox-simple
|header=
RunOffGroove.com
|body=
[[Big Daddy]] · [[Condor]] · [[Double D]] · [[Eighteen]] · [[English Channel]] · [[Fetzer Valve]] · [[Flipster]] · [[Grace]] · [[Little Gem]] · [[Matchbox]] · [[May Queen]] · [[Mr. EQ]] · [[Mockman]] · [[Omega]] · [[Peppermill]] · [[Phozer]] · [[Professor Tweed]] · [[Ruby Amp]] · [[Splitter-Blend]] · [[Supreaux Deux]] · [[Thor]] · [[Tonemender]] · [[ROG Tremolo|Tremolo]] · [[Tri-Vibe]] · [[22/7]] · [[Tube Reamer]] · [[Umble]] · [[Uno]]}}
[[Category:RunOffGroove]]
<noinclude>[[Category:Company templates]]</noinclude>

Template:Fender

2011-10-06T08:34:09Z

Egasimus: Created page with "Category:Fender"

[[Category:Fender]]

Wobulator

2011-10-06T08:32:51Z

Egasimus:

THE PAGE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION!

'''Wobulator (stereo trem/panner)'''

== Pedal description (by Lovetone) ==
WOBULATOR™
Are you stuck in the middle? Don't despair - the super-psychedelic twin oscillators will get you moving with an abundance of modulation possibilities! Be warned, however, the Wobulator™ is no ordinary trem pedal and has been know to subvert the sturdiest balance mechanism. Its not one to try if you're attempting tpo walk the plank! Although, of course, it is more than capable of classic mono trem effects it goes much further as you would expect. Being stereo it can be used for creating many kinds of spatial effects either in the studio or with two classic amps - YES!! It has a unique smooth sound which is ideal for fattening up digital sources and has been adopted by many producers as a favourite mixing 'n fixing tool.
There are 4 basic modes:
1 TREM - both Left and Right move up and down at the same time, but with a "cross-over" effect where Left is low pass filtered and Right is high pass filtered.
2 PAN - Left and Right move in anti-phase without a cross-over, akin to a normal "figure-of-eight" auto-panner.
3 VIB - same as TREM but in anti-phase, creating subtle phase cancellation (and therefore pitch and volume change) effects.
4 DUAL TREM - this again uses the cross-over but brings into play the second LFO. Left is now driven by LFO 1 and right by LFO 2.

© Lovetone 2000

== Technical info (by Lovetone) ==
Featuring:
* 2 Triangle/Square LFO's each with Rate control (LFO 2 operates in a higher range and goes up to audio frequencies which creates some unusual if subtle frequency modulation effects. The square waveform gives a "gated" effect which can get pretty weird in stereo)
* Pedal input for controlling LFO 1 Rate
* Trigger Input (which can be used to sync the LFO to a particular tempo, or to create "burst" or "ramp" effects for example)
* 2 Depth controls (for Left and Right outputs)
* 2 footswitches (also for Left and Right outputs - disabling the modulation on either one so that the other is moving against the straight signal opens up a whole new can of rather scary worms!)
* Phase switch
All the above effects are available in mono where they are summed to one output. (If you only have one amp but with two contrasting inputs you can use both Wobulator™ outputs to really bend some sound!) The Wobulator™ now sports an additional phase switch which effectively doubles the available number of sounds! Also extremely useful for phase inversion if you don't happen to have it on your desk!

== Controls ==

== Schematics ==
* [http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/Wobulator_v3.pdf Wobulator schematic] - Theorically, an official "project, schematic and layout pdf" should be released in a not-so-far future by the guy who's now building and debugging the proto effect.

== Layouts ==
None available yet!

== Project Files ==
None available yet!

== Sound samples (by Lovetone) ==
* [http://www.lovetone.com/wobulator.html Wobulator samples]

== Modifications ==
None available yet!

== Building info ==
None available yet!

== Latest news ==
None available yet!

== Links ==
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=54681.0 (READ AGAIN)]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Lovetone_effects Go back to the main Lovetone page]

(add images)
(add schems)

{{Lovetone}}

[[Category:Tremolo]]

5th Gear Overdrive

2011-10-06T08:30:54Z

Egasimus:

The '''5th Gear Overdrive''' is an overdrive stompbox designed by Joseph Raymond.
http://cordova.asap.um.maine.edu/~raymondj/imagehost/5thgearODv2_1.jpg

==Sound Samples==
*[http://cordova.asap.um.maine.edu/~raymondj/imagehost/5OD1.mp3 Full gain]
*[http://cordova.asap.um.maine.edu/~raymondj/imagehost/5OD2.mp3 Lowest gain]
*[http://cordova.asap.um.maine.edu/~raymondj/imagehost/5OD3.mp3 Mid gain]

[[Category: Overdrive]]

Big Muff Pi

2011-10-06T08:29:50Z

Egasimus:

The '''Big Muff Pi''', in its different incarnations, is probably [[Electro-Harmonix]]'s most popular product. This four-transistor [[fuzz]]box is one of the first high-gain [[distortion]] units on the market. Its characteristic dirty, harmonically rich distortion tone, combined with its reliability and accessible price have made it greatly popular. It is also the origin of the [[Big Muff tone control]].

= Versions (USA) =
== Triangle PNP ==
So called for the layout of the controls, this is the original Big Muff. Released in the early-mid 70s, under model number EH-3003, it was sold for $39.95, and today is the most difficult to find and, typically, the most expensive to purchase. The Triangle Muff has a slider switch to turn it on or off in addition to the bypass stompswitch, and doesn't feature a LED indicator or a DC connector. Uses [[PNP]] transistors - positive ground.

* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/triangleMuff.jpg Schematic at GEOFEX]
* [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album33 Aron's Site] Dragonfly's layout and parts list
* [http://members.fortunecity.com/uzzfay/bigmuff/bigmuff.html Uzzfay Utsgay] Original PC board artwork, layout, and gut shots.

== Triangle NPN ==
Another incarnation, uses [[NPN]] transistors, and a little less gain.

== Ram's Head ==
Total change of look, now it's housed in a bigger box, pots are now in a row, and letters are red. Uses [[PNP]] transistors. A little less gain than the first Triangle. The tone circuit gives it a pronounced mids scoop, making it tricky to use in a band context.

== Third edition ==
With the graphics currently associated with the american Big Muff. NPN transistors. Wilder and more "out of control".

== Third edition with tone bypass ==
Same circuit except some minor changes (3 capacitors change from 1uF to 0.1) and a switch to bypass tone control, which brings more mids to the sound.

== Opamp ==
Hated by some, loved by others, changed from transistors to op-amps.
[http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Electro_Harmonix_OpAmp_Big_Muff OpAmp Big Muff]

= Versions (Russia) =
== Civil War ==
Less gain than Third Edition and more mids.

== Green Russian ==
Very similar to Civil War.

== Black Russian ==
Current russian reedition of the Big Muff.

= Further reading =
* [http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/BMP_versions.htm Versions]
* [http://electroharmonix.ronsound.com/articles/bigmuff.html RonSound's article on Muff family history]
* [http://www.big-muff.net/big_muff.php Big Muff and Guitar Effects Museum] Lot's of BMP photos.

{{Electro-Harmonix}}
[[Category:Distortion]]
[[Category:Fuzz]]

Big Muff Pi

2011-10-06T08:28:23Z

Egasimus:

The '''Big Muff Pi''', in its different incarnations, is probably [[Electro-Harmonix]]'s most popular product. This four-transistor [[fuzz]]box is one of the first high-gain [[distortion]] units on the market. Its characteristic dirty, harmonically rich distortion tone, combined with its reliability and accessible price have made it greatly popular. It is also the origin of the [[Big Muff tone control]].

= Versions (USA) =
== Triangle PNP ==
So called for the layout of the controls, this is the original Big Muff. It's the most difficult to find and typically the most expensive to purchase. The Triangle Muff has a slider switch to turn it on or off in addition to the bypass stompswitch, and doesn't feature a LED indicator or a DC connector. Uses [[PNP]] transistors - positive ground.

'''Model Number''': EH-3003
'''Release Year''': Early-Mid 70's
'''Original Retail Price''': $39.95US

* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/triangleMuff.jpg Schematic at GEOFEX]
* [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album33 Aron's Site] Dragonfly's layout and parts list
* [http://members.fortunecity.com/uzzfay/bigmuff/bigmuff.html Uzzfay Utsgay] Original PC board artwork, layout, and gut shots.

== Triangle NPN ==
Another incarnation, uses [[NPN]] transistors, and a little less gain.

== Ram's Head ==
Total change of look, now it's housed in a bigger box, pots are now in a row, and letters are red. Uses [[PNP]] transistors. A little less gain than the first Triangle. The tone circuit gives it a pronounced mids scoop, making it tricky to use in a band context.

== Third edition ==
With the graphics currently associated with the american Big Muff. NPN transistors. Wilder and more "out of control".

== Third edition with tone bypass ==
Same circuit except some minor changes (3 capacitors change from 1uF to 0.1) and a switch to bypass tone control, which brings more mids to the sound.

== Opamp ==
Hated by some, loved by others, changed from transistors to op-amps.
[http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Electro_Harmonix_OpAmp_Big_Muff OpAmp Big Muff]

= Versions (Russia) =
== Civil War ==
Less gain than Third Edition and more mids.

== Green Russian ==
Very similar to Civil War.

== Black Russian ==
Current russian reedition of the Big Muff.

= Further reading =
* [http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/BMP_versions.htm Versions]
* [http://electroharmonix.ronsound.com/articles/bigmuff.html RonSound's article on Muff family history]
* [http://www.big-muff.net/big_muff.php Big Muff and Guitar Effects Museum] Lot's of BMP photos.

{{Electro-Harmonix}}
[[Category:Distortion]]
[[Category:Fuzz]]

Big Muff Pi

2011-10-06T08:26:51Z

Egasimus:

The '''Big Muff Pi''', in its different incarnations, is probably [[Electro-Harmonix]]'s most popular product. This four-transistor [[fuzz]]box is one of the first high-gain [[distortion]] units on the market. Its characteristic dirty, harmonically rich distortion tone, combined with its reliability and accessible price have made it greatly popular. It is also the origin of the [[Big Muff tone control]].

= Versions (USA) =
== Triangle PNP ==
So called for the layout of the controls, this is the original Big Muff. It's the most difficult to find and typically the most expensive to purchase. The Triangle Muff has a slider switch to turn it on or off in addition to the bypass stompswitch, and doesn't feature a LED indicator or a DC connector. Uses [[PNP]] transistors - positive ground.

'''Model Number''': EH-3003
'''Release Year''': Early-Mid 70's
'''Original Retail Price''': $39.95US

* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/triangleMuff.jpg Schematic at GEOFEX]
* [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album33 Aron's Site] Dragonfly's layout and parts list
* [http://members.fortunecity.com/uzzfay/bigmuff/bigmuff.html Uzzfay Utsgay] Original PC board artwork, layout, and gut shots.

== Triangle NPN ==
Another incarnation, uses [[NPN]] transistors, and a little less gain.

== Ram's Head ==
Total change of look, now it's housed in a bigger box, pots are now in a row, and letters are red. Uses [[PNP]] transistors. A little less gain than the first Triangle. The tone circuit gives it a pronounced mids scoop, making it tricky to use in a band context.

== Third edition ==
With the graphics currently associated with the american Big Muff. NPN transistors. Wilder and more "out of control".

== Third edition with tone bypass ==
Same circuit except some minor changes (3 capacitors change from 1uF to 0.1) and a switch to bypass tone control, which brings more mids to the sound.

== Opamp ==
Hated by some, loved by others, changed from transistors to op-amps.
[http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Electro_Harmonix_OpAmp_Big_Muff OpAmp Big Muff]

= Versions (Russia) =
== Civil War ==
== Green Russian ==
== Black Russian ==

= Further reading =
* [http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/BMP_versions.htm Versions]
* [http://electroharmonix.ronsound.com/articles/bigmuff.html RonSound's article on Muff family history]
* [http://www.big-muff.net/big_muff.php Big Muff and Guitar Effects Museum] Lot's of BMP photos.

{{Electro-Harmonix}}
[[Category:Distortion]]
[[Category:Fuzz]]

Electro Harmonix Triangle Big Muff

2011-10-06T08:22:32Z

Egasimus: Replaced content with "{{Delete}}"

Big Muff Pi

2011-10-06T08:21:47Z

Egasimus:

Wah-AntiWah

2011-10-06T08:18:42Z

Egasimus: moved Anderton Wah-AntiWah to Wah-AntiWah

The '''Anderton Wah-AntiWah''' consists of two [[wah]] filters set at different frequency ranges to provide a resonant boost. Typically, the pedal is built with a hand-operated knob rather than using a foot-operated treadle.

== Schematic ==
* [http://www.muzique.com/schem/wah2.gif Original schematic] - requires a bi-polar power supply.
* [http://www.muzique.com/news/wahantiwah-mod/ Updated schematic by Jack Orman] - converted to single power supply.

== Simulation ==

* [http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/rob/wah_antiwah_sim.jpg Image of simulation run]
* To run the simulation yourself, import the following netlist into the online simulator [http://www.falstad.com/afilter/ at falsted.com]:

<pre>
$ 1 5.0E-6 5 50 5.0 50
% 0 20615.097787781793
O 464 240 576 240 0
g 208 96 208 128 0
170 128 112 96 112 3 80.0 20000.0 5.0 0.1
w 144 112 144 32 0
w 144 32 192 32 0
w 144 224 192 224 0
r 192 224 240 224 0 47000.0
w 128 112 144 112 0
r 192 32 240 32 0 47000.0
w 240 32 240 64 0
a 320 128 368 128 0 15.0 -15.0 1000000.0
w 208 96 224 96 0
w 320 112 304 112 0
w 320 144 304 144 0
w 368 128 384 128 0
w 304 112 304 80 0
w 384 128 384 80 0
r 304 80 384 80 0 470000.0
c 384 48 384 64 0 5.0E-9 0.0
c 304 48 304 64 0 5.0E-9 0.0
w 384 64 384 80 0
w 304 64 304 80 0
g 304 144 304 176 0
w 416 128 384 128 0
r 448 128 416 128 0 1000.0
a 320 320 368 320 0 15.0 -15.0 1000000.0
w 304 304 320 304 0
w 304 336 320 336 0
w 384 320 368 320 0
w 384 320 384 272 0
w 304 304 304 272 0
w 304 272 320 272 0
r 320 272 368 272 0 470000.0
w 384 272 368 272 0
w 384 272 384 256 0
w 304 272 304 256 0
c 384 256 384 240 0 1.0E-9 0.0
c 304 256 304 240 0 1.0E-9 0.0
w 384 224 304 224 0
w 400 320 384 320 0
w 400 320 416 320 0
r 416 320 448 320 0 1000.0
w 448 320 464 320 0
w 464 128 448 128 0
g 304 336 304 352 0
w 240 32 304 32 0
w 304 32 384 32 0
w 464 320 464 240 0
174 240 64 224 128 0 50000.0 0.5 Control Pot
w 384 32 384 48 0
w 304 32 304 48 0
w 240 224 304 224 0
w 304 224 304 240 0
w 384 224 384 240 0
w 464 128 464 240 0
w 144 112 144 224 0
w 240 128 240 224 0
o 2 16 0 34 5.0 9.765625E-5 0 -1 in
o 0 16 0 34 2.5 9.765625E-5 1 -1 out
</pre>

== Layouts ==
* [http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/rob/anti-wah_vero.gif.html Vero Layout] - single power supply.

== Sound Samples ==

* [http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/rob/Wah-AntiWah_96.mp3.html DIY Stompboxes Gallery]

== Additional Info ==

See this [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=87816.0 thread]

== Commercial Units ==

[http://www.logansoundinc.com/ Logan Sound] offer a commercially made Wah-AntiWah pedal. Their web site also includes sound samples.

{{Anderton}}
[[Category:Wah]]

Anderton Wah-AntiWah

2011-10-06T08:18:42Z

Egasimus: moved Anderton Wah-AntiWah to Wah-AntiWah

#REDIRECT [[Wah-AntiWah]]

Template:Anderton

2011-10-06T08:18:36Z

Egasimus:

{{Navbox-simple|header=Craig Angerton|body=
[[Anderton Volume Pedal]] · [[Wah-AntiWah]]}}
[[Category:Craig Anderton designs]]

Template:Anderton

2011-10-06T08:18:28Z

Egasimus:

{{Navbox-simple|header=Craig Angerton|body=
[[Anderton Volume Pedal]]·[[Wah-AntiWah]]}}
[[Category:Craig Anderton designs]]

Template:Anderton

2011-10-06T08:18:06Z

Egasimus:

{{Navbox|header=Craig Angerton|body=
[[Anderton Volume Pedal]]·[[Wah-AntiWah]]}}
[[Category:Craig Anderton designs]]

Template:Anderton

2011-10-06T08:17:55Z

Egasimus:

{{Navbox|header=Craig Angerton|body=
[[Anderton Volume Pedal]]|[[Wah-AntiWah]]}}
[[Category:Craig Anderton designs]]

Template:Anderton

2011-10-06T08:17:07Z

Egasimus:

{{Navbox|header=Craig Angerton|body=}}
[[Category:Craig Anderton designs]]

Template:Anderton

2011-10-06T08:16:52Z

Egasimus: Created page with "{{Navbox|header=Craig Angerton|body=}}"

Tiny Giant

2011-10-06T08:16:06Z

Egasimus:

The '''Tiny Giant''' is a very small 20W amplifier design by [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=profile;u=2365 Taylor Livingston] based on the TDA7240A chip.

== Design ==

The design uses a 19.5V 4A laptop power supply. This power supply was choosen as it is used by the majority of laptop computers and thus easily available. An 18V supply can also be used by changing a single resistor.

== Schematic, Layout, BOM, PCBs and kits for sale ==

* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=86933.0 The "Forum Amp"] - The original thread in which Taylor proposed the design and sought input from the DiyStompBoxes forum.
* [http://musicpcb.com/pcbs/tiny-giant-amp/ MusicPCB.com]

== Build Links ==

[http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=89687 Building the Tiny Giant]

[[Category:Amplifiers]]

Univibe

2011-10-06T08:14:58Z

Egasimus:

The '''Univibe''' is a footpedal-operated [[phaser]] for creating faux [[chorus]] and [[vibrato]] effects. It was introduced in the 1960s by [[Shin-ei]], and was intended to emulate the "[[Doppler effect|Doppler]] sound" of a [[Leslie speaker]]. Though not a very successful Leslie simulator, the Univibe has become an effect in its own right, putting its stamp on tracks like Robin Trower's "Bridge of Sighs", Jimi Hendrix's "Machine Gun" and Pink Floyd's "Breathe". The effect, though often associated with chorus, is in fact created through a staggered series of phasing filters, unlike the usually aligned filters of a normal phasing effect. Unlike most other phaser pedals, this is achieved without the use of op-amps.

The Shin-ei '''Univibe''' was also sold as a [[Univox]] product.

"Univibe" is now a registered trademark of [[Dunlop]] Manufacturing, Inc..

[[Category:Univibe]]

Univibe

2011-10-06T08:14:45Z

Egasimus:

Safety

2011-10-06T08:10:11Z

Egasimus:

This little section of the Wiki can’t replace '''common sense, knowledge, and a healthy respect''' for the hazards we may encounter when doing DIY projects. Its intent is to offer you a place to start, to learn more about some of the safety issues you may encounter before you face them. The Internet is a great tool to find the answers, so please use it! If you’re in doubt about the safety of what you’re about to undertake, please take the time to work into it, learning as you go, and seek the advice of those with more experience. With the proper attitude, this hobby can be fun and rewarding as well as safe! As with all endeavors, '''putting one’s health and well-being first is the most important thing'''.

[formatting not done yet]

== Electrocution ==
At first glance, it might seem that there is little reason for a discussion of safety among those of us who set out to design, build, and modify effects pedals. After all, most pedals operate on 9 volts, which can make tinkering with them feel about as risky as using a flashlight or grabbing the TV remote. Safety considerations, we might reason, are best directed towards those who build mega-watt amplifiers and rig the PA system in the club.

In truth, of course, not all pedals operate on flashlight-level voltage, and the knowhow (as well as the interest) that the DIYer gains in modifying a pedal can lead naturally to a decision to tear into that amp in the corner that suddenly stopped working. Also, when the sound guy is running late at the club, asking the pedal DIYer to take a look at the way the mixing board is wired into the rest of the rack might not seem like such a stretch. Who else are you going to ask, the drummer?

Not only that, let's face it: except for the rare individual who builds or modifies pedals solely for the aesthetic benefit, it is safe to assume that most DIYers will at some point patch their pedals into a signal train that includes an amp (mega-watt or otherwise). At that point, the fact that such amps just happen to be connected to AC mains (120v in the US, 220V in Europe) is no trivial detail, especially when one considers that by touching the strings of the guitar, the player becomes part of the circuit. All of a sudden, grabbing the remote, even with wet hands, begins to look at lot less risky.

Fair enough, you might say, but what more can be shared about safety and electrocution risks that hasn't already been repeated on thousands of webpages? Good question, but here's an even better one. Since many of those webpages do contain excellent and reliable information, why would so many people continue to be killed (or at least burned, scared, and left very apprehensive) by electrocution? Nobody seriously believes, outside of Hollywood, that being electrocuted will leave you with special powers, yet it is apparently true that many people each year take unnecessary risks, and not all of them can be dismissed away as being unfortunate victims of sticking a knife into the toaster while hung-over the morning after a party. At least some of those who are injured or killed did know better, and had considerable experience with electronics and audio gear.

[http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=33010.0 Here's a thread re: transformers - tube amp isolation transformers]

== '''Common Risks and Common Warnings''' ==

In light of that fact, here are a few things that one can do to minimze the risks involved in DIY pedals and related gear.

=== Capacitors ===
One of the most common of warnings has to do with capacitors. The main thing to remember about capacitors, sorry, "caps," is that they can zap you by doing what they are supposed to do. In other words, a cap doesn't have to go bad or give into peer pressure in order to pose a significant danger to you. A cap is designed to store a charge and, given the right conditions, discharge it, usually very quickly.

Things would be greatly simplified, and I for one would feel a lot less nervous if caps had the equivalent of a gas gauge, a way of indicating whether they were charged (i.e., "full" vs. "empty"). Unfortunately, the engineers haven't gotten that far with caps, and even if they do someday come out with "charge gauges" the wise DIYer wouldn't trust them anyway. It is much, much safer to simply assume that the cap is charged, and discharge it. Treat every rifle as though it's loaded, and treat every cap as though it's charged.

There are a number of sites on the web that are helpful in learning how to safely discharge the caps in your audio gear. As an illustration, the website below recommends the use of a large screwdriver, though technically any insulated-handle tool with a conductive (i.e., metal) end would work for discharging the caps. The general idea is simple enough, to short the cap to ground (almost always the chassis) with the metal tip.

http://www.netads.com/~meo/Guitar/Amps/Kalamazoo/Mods/safe.html#zap

While this method will discharge the cap as effectively as any other method, from a safety standpoint it is far from ideal. Not only is there the possibility of a large spark when contact is made, the sudden discharge can startle the user or damage the components that might be, in effect, arc-welded by the spark. The startle-effect might seem trivial, but reactions and "freak-out" thresholds vary from person to person. I once saw a technician toss a reasonably expensive meter into the air when one of the leads unexpectedly shorted across 120v. Everyone laughed, of course, except him; when you're not expecting it, even a static-electricity discharge from the carpet to the doorknob is, however brief, unpleasant.

Far more sensible is to rely on a technique that bleeds the stored charge, usually by way of a large resistor. The resistor can be connected to the cap in various ways, but the key is to make sure that its wire leads are not connected to you. Some excellent suggestions for how one might do this are contained in this recent thread:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=49434.0

One final thought on the cap-discharge issue. It is tempting to think that as long as one avoids contact with the cap, the risk of electrocution will be eliminated. Assuming that the equipment is disconnected from the wall outlet, this is in some respects true. Note, however, that caps are always connected to other components, and in many cases those components will have relatively large, exposed metal leads. Thus, while you might avoid the caps themselves, say, when changing a tube, if you touch a component that is soldered or in some way connected to the cap, you will still be vulnerable. The lugs on the back of the On/Off switch are a good example. Even with the amp (or other device) unplugged, simply brushing against these lugs can be enough to complete a circuit, and whatever charge the caps had been holding onto, they will gladly transfer to the surface of your skin. Some gifts just aren't worth getting.

One caveat: it is common for a discussion of cap-safety to arise in the context of tube amps. Those amps, we hear, operate on as high as 450volts, and this can add to the concern over any caps that might be in such a circuit. The rule of thumb, then, is to discharge any caps you find inside a tube amp, BEFORE touching anything else. But solid-state amps often have large caps in their power sections, and while they may operate on what seems wimpy voltage compared to tube amps, they should be taken just as seriously. With both types of amps (or any other audio gear), always (1) unplug the amp, and (2) discharge the caps before poking around inside.

=== Shake Hands with Mr Electron ===

Another common warning goes something like this: when working on electrical equipment, always keep one hand in your pocket, or behind your back, strapped to your chairleg, and so on. The warning is usually presented as though it is part of the lore of electronics, dating back perhaps to Ben Franklin (it is uncertain whether he actually flew that kite, and less certain that he did so one-handed). Others will say things like, "I remember, as a boy, watching my papa repair those huge television sets, and he ALWAYS kept one hand in his pocket. It kept him from being shocked."

Here's the rationale behind the warning: if you only reach into the back of the amp with one hand, and you happen to make contact with exposed wiring, or in some other way place your hand into the electrical path, you will "only" get a zap on your hand. This is supposed to be qualitatively different from what could happen if you reach in with both mitts. Do it one-handed, the thinking goes, and the electricity will stop at your hand (or wrist, finger, it's never clear where) and be done with it, without going all the way up your arm, across your chest, stopping to zap your heart, and then exiting through your other hand. At this point, the person giving the advice will usually add some analogies, e.g., look at those birds on the electrical wire, and notice how they aren't zapped, look at the rat that crawls along the subway 3rd rail without getting zapped.

I can't say why your father kept one hand in his pocket, but if he wanted to avoid unnecessary risks, there were better ways to go about it. And as far as modeling your behavior on birds and rodents, you can do better. Yes, the fact that birds don't get zapped does illustrate an important point about grounding and the completing of a circuit path. But here's the real point: your ability to do precise electronic work on the inside of your amp is going to be greatly reduced, to put it mildly, if you force yourself to pretend that you lost an arm in combat. From the pessimist's vantage point, that means that you will spend more, not less, time around potentially lethal charges. So if you want to try to solder one-handed, I suppose you have the right. But it makes more sense to ensure that nothing inside of the circuit can zap you in the first place.

Furthermore, the underlying idea, that the current will never get near your heart if you only have one hand on that charged cap, simply doesn't have physics or physiology on its side. At most, you will make the electricity work a little harder to kill you, and it can cause serious damage without short-circuiting your heart in any case. So, in the end, the one-hand rule is sort of like recommending that someone wear a leather jacket to for protection when confronting a grizzly bear. The jacket will slow the bear down, but there are much better ways to improve your odds of surviving.

An exception to this would be those rare occasions when you need to poke around in an amp while it is on. If you're unsure, you really should think about paying a pro to do this, since even pros don't do it that often or that casually. There are, admittedly, some times when you can troubleshoot a live circuit by gently nudging a wire this way or that (to see what effect this has on hum, for instance). But why take risks when you don't have to? Don't just keep one of your hands out of the way, keep them both out of the way by using a long wooden stick to do the prodding. This, once more, applies only if you're absolutely sure that prodding is the best way. Even with a long stick, you're still inches away from a serious health risk.

== Soldering Hazards ==

I know, I know…we’ve all soldered 100’s of times, and nothing went wrong. But it can’t hurt to take a few minutes to read this, and make sure we’re not missing anything, can it? Aside from the obvious (and very real) fire hazards posed by a hot soldering iron, there can be a couple of other items we don’t think much about that could pose safety issues. For instance, while the concentrations of dangerous compounds we’re likely to encounter in the DIY world are usually not high, the name of the game is to avoid cumulative exposures. Just as smoking one cigarette isn't likely to cause a whole lot of damage, repeatedly doing so can lead to serious health consequences.

=== Lead ===
Solder contains lead, and usually has a rosin core that cleans and prepares the surfaces to be joined. Exposure to excessive levels of lead can cause neurologic and reproductive damage. On one hand, then, it is lucky for us that the amounts of lead commonly encountered while building DIY equipment are not high. On the other hand, since the best exposure where lead is concerned is none at all, some caution is in order.

What steps can one take? The basic rules for handling solder are to avoid touching your mouth, other people, eating/drinking/smoking after contact, or otherwise ingesting the stuff. The most likely way to absorb lead from solder is from unintentional ingestion. When you’re done soldering, or you just decide to take a break, wash your hands! Not only will this keep the lead from entering your body, it will keep any traces off of those that you touch. Also, it makes sense to clean up your solder bits at your workstation, and avoid tracking them all over the house ;o)

=== Fumes ===
The second hazard posed by solder is the fumes that are released on contact with a hot iron. These fumes can contain gaseous lead and formaldehyde, as well as anything else that may be present in the rosin. Again, while there is no clear evidence concerning just how much of the nasty substances ar present in the fumes, the simplest way to minimize any risks would be to run a small fan and blow the stuff away from your face. If nothing else, this will essentially dilute the concentration of the hazardous stuff that you may be exposed to. Take a tip from the pros who work in respirators all day: if you can smell the fumes, you’re inhaling them!

=== Heat ===
And finally, to restate the obvious... probably the highest danger associated with soldering is the hot iron itself. Be sure that it’s in good condition, with no damaged insulation, etc. And how many of us have accidentally left the thing on overnight (or for days)? Workstations can be purchased or built that operate on a timer, which will automatically turn the iron off after a specified time period. But one shouldn’t rely totally on a ‘dummy system’; don’t walk away from a hot iron, and be sure it’s off after a soldering session! If you really want to minimize your risks, make a habit of unplugging the cord.

An article can’t replace common sense at the workstation, and this one isn’t meant to be “the last word” on soldering safety. You may encounter other hazards – learning to identify and deal with them will keep you safe and building your creations for years to come!

== '''Safety When Etching Printed Circuit Boards''' ==

When building many DIY projects, it's natural to want to make your own printed circuit board. But this can, not surprisingly, lead to another safety and health issue: the etchants used to dissolve the copper from the board, leaving the traces behind, can pose some health risks. Nothing to be TOO worried about, but once again, something to keep in mind when using, and disposing of, these chemicals! This article is not a complete guide to using these chemicals, but it's hoped that it will point those who are interested in safety in the right direction.

The general consensus seems to be this: what we call etchants are in reality acids and they CAN burn you. If this concerns you, and it should, the easiest course would be to simply explore the possibility of ordering pre-made circuit boards. If using a moderately strong acid doesn’t send up red flags with you, then by all means proceed with knowledge, caution, and respect!

=== Basic safety ===
When working with etchants, bear in mind that these acids can burn skin, eyes, and even lungs! You'll need to follow basic chemistry-lab safety practices. For example, always work in a safe place, which is to say one free of obstacles/trip hazards, and one that is also WELL-VENTILATED (e.g., a garage?). A safe place would also be clear of objects that may be ruined by contact with the acid. Wear appropriate (i.e., old) clothing, eye protection, acid-resistant gloves, and do not breath the fumes that may be present near the work area. Also, as obvious as it might sound, make sure to keep your face away from the etching container!

Etchants and the metals that they dissolve are poisonous. This means that you should not use containers, utensils, and the like which could be re-used in the kitchen! No eating, drinking, or smoking during use, and don’t leave etchant where a pet or child could come into contact with it. If heating the etchant, don’t boil it or cause it to spill, and use the same respect that you show towards electricity when you are the presence of liquids that you always would.

Lastly, read and understand the manufacturer’s cautions/first aid information, and have a look at the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the compounds you are working with. Know how to deal with spills, ingestion, contact with eyes and other first aid issues before beginning work, and be ready to act - keep whatever materials you might need, such as fresh water and baking soda, nearby. Never dispose of raw, spent etchant down the sink or toilet, or dump it on the ground. Generally speaking, you should keep it out of the trash, since improper disposal could lead to serious environmental clean-up costs, the unintended poisoning of drinking water wells and the like. There are enough challenges in building pedals without trying to do it with the EPA on your case!

Much has been written on this subject in the forum (thanks to those who took the time to find the info), so I’ve compiled the information that follows from there. Please take the time to read through these valuable forum entries on the subject. Remember, as with any DIY project, your understanding of the risks that may be present, and having a plan to deal with them, will help ensure your safety as you enjoy this hobby.

===Etchants===
Ferric Chloride A.K.A. Iron Trichloride, Iron Perchloride
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/liquid/415-liquid.pdf

Advantages:
Easy to use, sold in premixed form.
Fairly inexpensive and easy to find.
Does a very good job etching.

Disadvantages:
Can cause chemical burns! See MSDS for other health concerns.
Stains almost everything it comes into contact with.
Will corrode other metals.
The chemicals dark reddish color makes it difficult to check etching progress.

Tips:
Works best when warmed. 100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit or 38 - 49 degrees Celsius is hot enought. Do Not Boil!
Aerating and or agitating also speeds etching.

Disposal: I can't explain it any better than Mark Hammer already has. Thanks Mark!
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.msg377103#msg377103

Baking soda (NOT baking powder) will produce a chemical reaction with ferric chloride that will render the solution relatively harmless to the environment. It is how I have been disposing of my etchant for decades now.

Note the following, though:

Like any rapid chemical reaction, heat is produced so you do NOT want to engage in this on a large and rapid scale; a little bit at a time, wait for it to settle down, and then continue with a bit more.

The reaction between the acid and the soda produces a foam-like substance which, in turn, dries into something that looks like rust-coloured styrofoam. The byproducts of the baking-soda/ferric-chloride interaction expand to occupy about 7-10x the volume of the original ingredients. This means that if you have a tub of etchant, filled to the brim, and you dump a box of baking soda into it, you can expect the reaction to cause an overflow of the container, and very likely cover your workspace with ooze within 20 seconds or so. If that doesn't sound bad enough, keep in mind that the "ooze" is partly de-activated byproduct by also not-yet-deactivated etchant which will stain for life most anything that it comes into contact with. So, you will need a large container (or else place small amounts of your main etchant bath in a medium container) to contain the whole mess or else you risk something you will deeply regret.

One thing that increases the hazard level is the fact that the etchant may LOOK completely treated when it isn't. For example, you may have just a small residual film at the bottom of the container, yet when you dump a few tablespoons of soda on it, it might start to foam like crazy. In that case, you will want to keep applying the soda until the rust-coloured mess you have is fairly dry in texture. Once you have turned it from wet and dangerous into dry and harmless, you can simply pour all those crumbly bits into a garbage bag and set it out with all the other household waste.

Finally, etchant can often be extended for use a bit longer. If you have a way of safely storing and transferring the stuff to another container, let your bath sit idly for a couple of days (at least) so that all the copper precipitates are sitting like a thick mud at the bottom. GENTLY pour the still-useful etchant from the top into another container. Now you can dump your baking soda into the thick stuff to finish using up whatever molecules of ferric chloride are still around.

Ammonium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/410.pdf[url]

Sodium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/4101.pdf

== Painting Safety ==

Spray-painting your DIY enclosures is not a high-risk endeavor, but there are still a few things to keep in mind.

===Ventilation===
When using spray paints and solvents, always work in a well-ventilated area. The build-up of paint fumes can cause headaches, neurological damage, and respiratory distress, and the strong odor is a sign that you’re being exposed to the numerous chemicals present in the paint. You want to minimize how much of the stuff you breathe in. Work in short bursts so that you don’t have to be in the same area with the fumes for a long period of time. Respirators aren’t a bad idea, but they don’t tell you how much oxygen is present. For proper use they require professional fit-testing and training in what they can and cannot do, which cartridges to use, etc.

===Eye protection===
Always wear appropriate eye protection when painting. It’s easy to get the spray nozzle reversed and take a hit in the face!

===Fire Hazards===
Paint and solvents are HIGHLY FLAMMABLE! Don’t store them where they can pose a fire risk, and be sure solvents are well-labeled. Don’t use them around potential sources of ignition (smoking materials, furnaces, or any other sources of flame or spark). Theoretically, enough fumes could be generated in an enclosed area, such as a small workshop, to create a combustible atmosphere - remember to ventilate! Also keep in mind that rags soaked in paints and solvents should be spread over a surface, such as a workbench, when you are done, and left to thoroughly dry – don’t toss them in the trash, as they could spontaneously combust!!

===Solvents===
It was pretty common in earlier years to clean up equipment and even body parts with solvents such as paint thinner. On one hand, this was always very effective. On the other hand, it’s also provides one of the most direct routes to toxic exposure! The compounds present in solvents, even low-VOC ones, can cause liver damage, and many are carcinogenic in addition to being highly flammable. You can, in short, find better ways to clean up. Wash with soap and water if you get some on your hands. A good approach would be to save the thinner for cleaning overspray (preferably while wearing gloves), and get one of the citrus-based non-toxic hand cleaners for cleaning any skin.

== '''Odds & Ends''' ==
=== Mercury ===
This has come up a couple of times in the forum, so it may be worth mentioning. Position-sensitive switches, such as those found in thermostats, often contain mercury, a poisonous liquid metal. If the glass switch vial breaks, the small quantity of mercury inside can get loose and be tracked everywhere. This is a problem, since, however cool merc might be to look at, the substance is toxic if ingested, and will release poisonous fumes if heated. If a spill happens to you, do not touch the mercury! It can be scooped up with a couple of pieces of cardboard or a dustpan and disposed of properly. The key word here is ''properly''. Don’t casually discard this substance! Here is a link to disposal and other mercury-related information:
http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/hazwaste/mercury/faq/spills.htm

Remember: Be sure not to touch your mouth before you are able to thoroughly wash up!

===PCB dust===
When working with printed circuit board material, it may be necessary to cut it to shape. There are many ways to do this (hack saw, Dremel, score-and-snap…), but in all cases one should try to create as little dust as possible during the process. This dust can cause health problems – therefore, a N95 (or better) rated paper-style dust mask should be worn to minimize exposure. And the usual caveat of proper ventilation applies.

===The other "PCBs"===
Polychlorinated Biphenyls: First, the bad news. PCBs are a highly toxic chemical once used as transformer oil and capacitor dielectric before the dangers associated with them were known. Today, these chemicals are considered dangerous enough that their use in industry is outlawed. The good news is that there is a very small – some might say negligable – risk that you may one day encounter PCBs in old equipment. Be aware that they are out there lurking in some old components. Washing up thoroughly after handling parts and avoiding gel or oil-like stuff you might encounter can help keep you safe.

===Metal ‘dust’=== – When drilling holes in an enclosure, watch out for the shavings. If the particles are just the right size, they could get airborne and be inhaled. A much greater risk is that they’ll be forced into the skin of your fingers and cause discomfort or even splinters, especially if the holes you’ve drilled are rough. Clean them up when you’re done so they don’t spread around your work surface and get into things!

===Safe cooking=== - A lot of people talk about ‘cooking’ their enclosures once they’ve been painted, to bake the finish on and make it cure faster. Opinions vary on the times and temperatures that this operation should use. A baking temp of 200F for 20-30 mins. seems to be the norm. That might seem like nothing to worry about, especially since a loaf of bread might be baked at 375 for almost an hour (and pizzas are often baked at 500F). But two strong issues arise if you try this at home with your enclosures. First, baking an enclosure can present a respectable fire and/or burn hazard! Second, the fumes released by the process are definitely of a toxic nature. So once more, ventilate, and do your baking outdoors if possible! Best of all would be to never use an oven that will be used for food again – a simple toaster oven dedicated to the purpose can be purchased cheaply.

Safety

2011-10-06T08:07:32Z

Egasimus:

Safety

2011-10-06T08:07:06Z

Egasimus:

This little section of the Wiki can’t replace '''common sense, knowledge, and a healthy respect''' for the hazards we may encounter when doing DIY projects. Its intent is to offer you a place to start, to learn more about some of the safety issues you may encounter before you face them. The Internet is a great tool to find the answers, so please use it! If you’re in doubt about the safety of what you’re about to undertake, please take the time to work into it, learning as you go, and seek the advice of those with more experience. With the proper attitude, this hobby can be fun and rewarding as well as safe! As with all endeavors, '''putting one’s health and well-being first is the most important thing'''.

[formatting not done yet]

== Electrocution ==
At first glance, it might seem that there is little reason for a discussion of safety among those of us who set out to design, build, and modify effects pedals. After all, most pedals operate on 9 volts, which can make tinkering with them feel about as risky as using a flashlight or grabbing the TV remote. Safety considerations, we might reason, are best directed towards those who build mega-watt amplifiers and rig the PA system in the club.

In truth, of course, not all pedals operate on flashlight-level voltage, and the knowhow (as well as the interest) that the DIYer gains in modifying a pedal can lead naturally to a decision to tear into that amp in the corner that suddenly stopped working. Also, when the sound guy is running late at the club, asking the pedal DIYer to take a look at the way the mixing board is wired into the rest of the rack might not seem like such a stretch. Who else are you going to ask, the drummer?

Not only that, let's face it: except for the rare individual who builds or modifies pedals solely for the aesthetic benefit, it is safe to assume that most DIYers will at some point patch their pedals into a signal train that includes an amp (mega-watt or otherwise). At that point, the fact that such amps just happen to be connected to AC mains (120v in the US, 220V in Europe) is no trivial detail, especially when one considers that by touching the strings of the guitar, the player becomes part of the circuit. All of a sudden, grabbing the remote, even with wet hands, begins to look at lot less risky.

Fair enough, you might say, but what more can be shared about safety and electrocution risks that hasn't already been repeated on thousands of webpages? Good question, but here's an even better one. Since many of those webpages do contain excellent and reliable information, why would so many people continue to be killed (or at least burned, scared, and left very apprehensive) by electrocution? Nobody seriously believes, outside of Hollywood, that being electrocuted will leave you with special powers, yet it is apparently true that many people each year take unnecessary risks, and not all of them can be dismissed away as being unfortunate victims of sticking a knife into the toaster while hung-over the morning after a party. At least some of those who are injured or killed did know better, and had considerable experience with electronics and audio gear.

[http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=33010.0 Here's a thread re: transformers - tube amp isolation transformers]

== '''Common Risks and Common Warnings''' ==

In light of that fact, here are a few things that one can do to minimze the risks involved in DIY pedals and related gear.

=== Capacitors ===
One of the most common of warnings has to do with capacitors. The main thing to remember about capacitors, sorry, "caps," is that they can zap you by doing what they are supposed to do. In other words, a cap doesn't have to go bad or give into peer pressure in order to pose a significant danger to you. A cap is designed to store a charge and, given the right conditions, discharge it, usually very quickly.

Things would be greatly simplified, and I for one would feel a lot less nervous if caps had the equivalent of a gas gauge, a way of indicating whether they were charged (i.e., "full" vs. "empty"). Unfortunately, the engineers haven't gotten that far with caps, and even if they do someday come out with "charge gauges" the wise DIYer wouldn't trust them anyway. It is much, much safer to simply assume that the cap is charged, and discharge it. Treat every rifle as though it's loaded, and treat every cap as though it's charged.

There are a number of sites on the web that are helpful in learning how to safely discharge the caps in your audio gear. As an illustration, the website below recommends the use of a large screwdriver, though technically any insulated-handle tool with a conductive (i.e., metal) end would work for discharging the caps. The general idea is simple enough, to short the cap to ground (almost always the chassis) with the metal tip.

http://www.netads.com/~meo/Guitar/Amps/Kalamazoo/Mods/safe.html#zap

While this method will discharge the cap as effectively as any other method, from a safety standpoint it is far from ideal. Not only is there the possibility of a large spark when contact is made, the sudden discharge can startle the user or damage the components that might be, in effect, arc-welded by the spark. The startle-effect might seem trivial, but reactions and "freak-out" thresholds vary from person to person. I once saw a technician toss a reasonably expensive meter into the air when one of the leads unexpectedly shorted across 120v. Everyone laughed, of course, except him; when you're not expecting it, even a static-electricity discharge from the carpet to the doorknob is, however brief, unpleasant.

Far more sensible is to rely on a technique that bleeds the stored charge, usually by way of a large resistor. The resistor can be connected to the cap in various ways, but the key is to make sure that its wire leads are not connected to you. Some excellent suggestions for how one might do this are contained in this recent thread:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=49434.0

One final thought on the cap-discharge issue. It is tempting to think that as long as one avoids contact with the cap, the risk of electrocution will be eliminated. Assuming that the equipment is disconnected from the wall outlet, this is in some respects true. Note, however, that caps are always connected to other components, and in many cases those components will have relatively large, exposed metal leads. Thus, while you might avoid the caps themselves, say, when changing a tube, if you touch a component that is soldered or in some way connected to the cap, you will still be vulnerable. The lugs on the back of the On/Off switch are a good example. Even with the amp (or other device) unplugged, simply brushing against these lugs can be enough to complete a circuit, and whatever charge the caps had been holding onto, they will gladly transfer to the surface of your skin. Some gifts just aren't worth getting.

One caveat: it is common for a discussion of cap-safety to arise in the context of tube amps. Those amps, we hear, operate on as high as 450volts, and this can add to the concern over any caps that might be in such a circuit. The rule of thumb, then, is to discharge any caps you find inside a tube amp, BEFORE touching anything else. But solid-state amps often have large caps in their power sections, and while they may operate on what seems wimpy voltage compared to tube amps, they should be taken just as seriously. With both types of amps (or any other audio gear), always (1) unplug the amp, and (2) discharge the caps before poking around inside.

=== Shake Hands with Mr Electron ===

Another common warning goes something like this: when working on electrical equipment, always keep one hand in your pocket, or behind your back, strapped to your chairleg, and so on. The warning is usually presented as though it is part of the lore of electronics, dating back perhaps to Ben Franklin (it is uncertain whether he actually flew that kite, and less certain that he did so one-handed). Others will say things like, "I remember, as a boy, watching my papa repair those huge television sets, and he ALWAYS kept one hand in his pocket. It kept him from being shocked."

Here's the rationale behind the warning: if you only reach into the back of the amp with one hand, and you happen to make contact with exposed wiring, or in some other way place your hand into the electrical path, you will "only" get a zap on your hand. This is supposed to be qualitatively different from what could happen if you reach in with both mitts. Do it one-handed, the thinking goes, and the electricity will stop at your hand (or wrist, finger, it's never clear where) and be done with it, without going all the way up your arm, across your chest, stopping to zap your heart, and then exiting through your other hand. At this point, the person giving the advice will usually add some analogies, e.g., look at those birds on the electrical wire, and notice how they aren't zapped, look at the rat that crawls along the subway 3rd rail without getting zapped.

I can't say why your father kept one hand in his pocket, but if he wanted to avoid unnecessary risks, there were better ways to go about it. And as far as modeling your behavior on birds and rodents, you can do better. Yes, the fact that birds don't get zapped does illustrate an important point about grounding and the completing of a circuit path. But here's the real point: your ability to do precise electronic work on the inside of your amp is going to be greatly reduced, to put it mildly, if you force yourself to pretend that you lost an arm in combat. From the pessimist's vantage point, that means that you will spend more, not less, time around potentially lethal charges. So if you want to try to solder one-handed, I suppose you have the right. But it makes more sense to ensure that nothing inside of the circuit can zap you in the first place.

Furthermore, the underlying idea, that the current will never get near your heart if you only have one hand on that charged cap, simply doesn't have physics or physiology on its side. At most, you will make the electricity work a little harder to kill you, and it can cause serious damage without short-circuiting your heart in any case. So, in the end, the one-hand rule is sort of like recommending that someone wear a leather jacket to for protection when confronting a grizzly bear. The jacket will slow the bear down, but there are much better ways to improve your odds of surviving.

An exception to this would be those rare occasions when you need to poke around in an amp while it is on. If you're unsure, you really should think about paying a pro to do this, since even pros don't do it that often or that casually. There are, admittedly, some times when you can troubleshoot a live circuit by gently nudging a wire this way or that (to see what effect this has on hum, for instance). But why take risks when you don't have to? Don't just keep one of your hands out of the way, keep them both out of the way by using a long wooden stick to do the prodding. This, once more, applies only if you're absolutely sure that prodding is the best way. Even with a long stick, you're still inches away from a serious health risk.

== Soldering Hazards ==

I know, I know…we’ve all soldered 100’s of times, and nothing went wrong. But it can’t hurt to take a few minutes to read this, and make sure we’re not missing anything, can it? Aside from the obvious (and very real) fire hazards posed by a hot soldering iron, there can be a couple of other items we don’t think much about that could pose safety issues. For instance, while the concentrations of dangerous compounds we’re likely to encounter in the DIY world are usually not high, the name of the game is to avoid cumulative exposures. Just as smoking one cigarette isn't likely to cause a whole lot of damage, repeatedly doing so can lead to serious health consequences.

== Lead ==
Solder contains lead, and usually has a rosin core that cleans and prepares the surfaces to be joined. Exposure to excessive levels of lead can cause neurologic and reproductive damage. On one hand, then, it is lucky for us that the amounts of lead commonly encountered while building DIY equipment are not high. On the other hand, since the best exposure where lead is concerned is none at all, some caution is in order.

What steps can one take? The basic rules for handling solder are to avoid touching your mouth, other people, eating/drinking/smoking after contact, or otherwise ingesting the stuff. The most likely way to absorb lead from solder is from unintentional ingestion. When you’re done soldering, or you just decide to take a break, wash your hands! Not only will this keep the lead from entering your body, it will keep any traces off of those that you touch. Also, it makes sense to clean up your solder bits at your workstation, and avoid tracking them all over the house ;o)

== Fumes ==
The second hazard posed by solder is the fumes that are released on contact with a hot iron. These fumes can contain gaseous lead and formaldehyde, as well as anything else that may be present in the rosin. Again, while there is no clear evidence concerning just how much of the nasty substances ar present in the fumes, the simplest way to minimize any risks would be to run a small fan and blow the stuff away from your face. If nothing else, this will essentially dilute the concentration of the hazardous stuff that you may be exposed to. Take a tip from the pros who work in respirators all day: if you can smell the fumes, you’re inhaling them!

== Heat ==
And finally, to restate the obvious... probably the highest danger associated with soldering is the hot iron itself. Be sure that it’s in good condition, with no damaged insulation, etc. And how many of us have accidentally left the thing on overnight (or for days)? Workstations can be purchased or built that operate on a timer, which will automatically turn the iron off after a specified time period. But one shouldn’t rely totally on a ‘dummy system’; don’t walk away from a hot iron, and be sure it’s off after a soldering session! If you really want to minimize your risks, make a habit of unplugging the cord.

An article can’t replace common sense at the workstation, and this one isn’t meant to be “the last word” on soldering safety. You may encounter other hazards – learning to identify and deal with them will keep you safe and building your creations for years to come!

== '''Safety When Etching Printed Circuit Boards''' ==

When building many DIY projects, it's natural to want to make your own printed circuit board. But this can, not surprisingly, lead to another safety and health issue: the etchants used to dissolve the copper from the board, leaving the traces behind, can pose some health risks. Nothing to be TOO worried about, but once again, something to keep in mind when using, and disposing of, these chemicals! This article is not a complete guide to using these chemicals, but it's hoped that it will point those who are interested in safety in the right direction.

The general consensus seems to be this: what we call etchants are in reality acids and they CAN burn you. If this concerns you, and it should, the easiest course would be to simply explore the possibility of ordering pre-made circuit boards. If using a moderately strong acid doesn’t send up red flags with you, then by all means proceed with knowledge, caution, and respect!

=== Basic safety ===
When working with etchants, bear in mind that these acids can burn skin, eyes, and even lungs! You'll need to follow basic chemistry-lab safety practices. For example, always work in a safe place, which is to say one free of obstacles/trip hazards, and one that is also WELL-VENTILATED (e.g., a garage?). A safe place would also be clear of objects that may be ruined by contact with the acid. Wear appropriate (i.e., old) clothing, eye protection, acid-resistant gloves, and do not breath the fumes that may be present near the work area. Also, as obvious as it might sound, make sure to keep your face away from the etching container!

Etchants and the metals that they dissolve are poisonous. This means that you should not use containers, utensils, and the like which could be re-used in the kitchen! No eating, drinking, or smoking during use, and don’t leave etchant where a pet or child could come into contact with it. If heating the etchant, don’t boil it or cause it to spill, and use the same respect that you show towards electricity when you are the presence of liquids that you always would.

Lastly, read and understand the manufacturer’s cautions/first aid information, and have a look at the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the compounds you are working with. Know how to deal with spills, ingestion, contact with eyes and other first aid issues before beginning work, and be ready to act - keep whatever materials you might need, such as fresh water and baking soda, nearby. Never dispose of raw, spent etchant down the sink or toilet, or dump it on the ground. Generally speaking, you should keep it out of the trash, since improper disposal could lead to serious environmental clean-up costs, the unintended poisoning of drinking water wells and the like. There are enough challenges in building pedals without trying to do it with the EPA on your case!

Much has been written on this subject in the forum (thanks to those who took the time to find the info), so I’ve compiled the information that follows from there. Please take the time to read through these valuable forum entries on the subject. Remember, as with any DIY project, your understanding of the risks that may be present, and having a plan to deal with them, will help ensure your safety as you enjoy this hobby.

===Etchants===
Ferric Chloride A.K.A. Iron Trichloride, Iron Perchloride
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/liquid/415-liquid.pdf

Advantages:
Easy to use, sold in premixed form.
Fairly inexpensive and easy to find.
Does a very good job etching.

Disadvantages:
Can cause chemical burns! See MSDS for other health concerns.
Stains almost everything it comes into contact with.
Will corrode other metals.
The chemicals dark reddish color makes it difficult to check etching progress.

Tips:
Works best when warmed. 100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit or 38 - 49 degrees Celsius is hot enought. Do Not Boil!
Aerating and or agitating also speeds etching.

Disposal: I can't explain it any better than Mark Hammer already has. Thanks Mark!
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.msg377103#msg377103

Baking soda (NOT baking powder) will produce a chemical reaction with ferric chloride that will render the solution relatively harmless to the environment. It is how I have been disposing of my etchant for decades now.

Note the following, though:

Like any rapid chemical reaction, heat is produced so you do NOT want to engage in this on a large and rapid scale; a little bit at a time, wait for it to settle down, and then continue with a bit more.

The reaction between the acid and the soda produces a foam-like substance which, in turn, dries into something that looks like rust-coloured styrofoam. The byproducts of the baking-soda/ferric-chloride interaction expand to occupy about 7-10x the volume of the original ingredients. This means that if you have a tub of etchant, filled to the brim, and you dump a box of baking soda into it, you can expect the reaction to cause an overflow of the container, and very likely cover your workspace with ooze within 20 seconds or so. If that doesn't sound bad enough, keep in mind that the "ooze" is partly de-activated byproduct by also not-yet-deactivated etchant which will stain for life most anything that it comes into contact with. So, you will need a large container (or else place small amounts of your main etchant bath in a medium container) to contain the whole mess or else you risk something you will deeply regret.

One thing that increases the hazard level is the fact that the etchant may LOOK completely treated when it isn't. For example, you may have just a small residual film at the bottom of the container, yet when you dump a few tablespoons of soda on it, it might start to foam like crazy. In that case, you will want to keep applying the soda until the rust-coloured mess you have is fairly dry in texture. Once you have turned it from wet and dangerous into dry and harmless, you can simply pour all those crumbly bits into a garbage bag and set it out with all the other household waste.

Finally, etchant can often be extended for use a bit longer. If you have a way of safely storing and transferring the stuff to another container, let your bath sit idly for a couple of days (at least) so that all the copper precipitates are sitting like a thick mud at the bottom. GENTLY pour the still-useful etchant from the top into another container. Now you can dump your baking soda into the thick stuff to finish using up whatever molecules of ferric chloride are still around.

Ammonium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/410.pdf[url]

Sodium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/4101.pdf

== Painting Safety ==

Spray-painting your DIY enclosures is not a high-risk endeavor, but there are still a few things to keep in mind.

===Ventilation===
When using spray paints and solvents, always work in a well-ventilated area. The build-up of paint fumes can cause headaches, neurological damage, and respiratory distress, and the strong odor is a sign that you’re being exposed to the numerous chemicals present in the paint. You want to minimize how much of the stuff you breathe in. Work in short bursts so that you don’t have to be in the same area with the fumes for a long period of time. Respirators aren’t a bad idea, but they don’t tell you how much oxygen is present. For proper use they require professional fit-testing and training in what they can and cannot do, which cartridges to use, etc.

===Eye protection===
Always wear appropriate eye protection when painting. It’s easy to get the spray nozzle reversed and take a hit in the face!

===Fire Hazards===
Paint and solvents are HIGHLY FLAMMABLE! Don’t store them where they can pose a fire risk, and be sure solvents are well-labeled. Don’t use them around potential sources of ignition (smoking materials, furnaces, or any other sources of flame or spark). Theoretically, enough fumes could be generated in an enclosed area, such as a small workshop, to create a combustible atmosphere - remember to ventilate! Also keep in mind that rags soaked in paints and solvents should be spread over a surface, such as a workbench, when you are done, and left to thoroughly dry – don’t toss them in the trash, as they could spontaneously combust!!

===Solvents===
It was pretty common in earlier years to clean up equipment and even body parts with solvents such as paint thinner. On one hand, this was always very effective. On the other hand, it’s also provides one of the most direct routes to toxic exposure! The compounds present in solvents, even low-VOC ones, can cause liver damage, and many are carcinogenic in addition to being highly flammable. You can, in short, find better ways to clean up. Wash with soap and water if you get some on your hands. A good approach would be to save the thinner for cleaning overspray (preferably while wearing gloves), and get one of the citrus-based non-toxic hand cleaners for cleaning any skin.

== '''Odds & Ends''' ==
=== Mercury ===
This has come up a couple of times in the forum, so it may be worth mentioning. Position-sensitive switches, such as those found in thermostats, often contain mercury, a poisonous liquid metal. If the glass switch vial breaks, the small quantity of mercury inside can get loose and be tracked everywhere. This is a problem, since, however cool merc might be to look at, the substance is toxic if ingested, and will release poisonous fumes if heated. If a spill happens to you, do not touch the mercury! It can be scooped up with a couple of pieces of cardboard or a dustpan and disposed of properly. The key word here is ''properly''. Don’t casually discard this substance! Here is a link to disposal and other mercury-related information:
http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/hazwaste/mercury/faq/spills.htm

Remember: Be sure not to touch your mouth before you are able to thoroughly wash up!

===PCB dust===
When working with printed circuit board material, it may be necessary to cut it to shape. There are many ways to do this (hack saw, Dremel, score-and-snap…), but in all cases one should try to create as little dust as possible during the process. This dust can cause health problems – therefore, a N95 (or better) rated paper-style dust mask should be worn to minimize exposure. And the usual caveat of proper ventilation applies.

===The other "PCBs"===
Polychlorinated Biphenyls: First, the bad news. PCBs are a highly toxic chemical once used as transformer oil and capacitor dielectric before the dangers associated with them were known. Today, these chemicals are considered dangerous enough that their use in industry is outlawed. The good news is that there is a very small – some might say negligable – risk that you may one day encounter PCBs in old equipment. Be aware that they are out there lurking in some old components. Washing up thoroughly after handling parts and avoiding gel or oil-like stuff you might encounter can help keep you safe.

===Metal ‘dust’=== – When drilling holes in an enclosure, watch out for the shavings. If the particles are just the right size, they could get airborne and be inhaled. A much greater risk is that they’ll be forced into the skin of your fingers and cause discomfort or even splinters, especially if the holes you’ve drilled are rough. Clean them up when you’re done so they don’t spread around your work surface and get into things!

===Safe cooking=== - A lot of people talk about ‘cooking’ their enclosures once they’ve been painted, to bake the finish on and make it cure faster. Opinions vary on the times and temperatures that this operation should use. A baking temp of 200F for 20-30 mins. seems to be the norm. That might seem like nothing to worry about, especially since a loaf of bread might be baked at 375 for almost an hour (and pizzas are often baked at 500F). But two strong issues arise if you try this at home with your enclosures. First, baking an enclosure can present a respectable fire and/or burn hazard! Second, the fumes released by the process are definitely of a toxic nature. So once more, ventilate, and do your baking outdoors if possible! Best of all would be to never use an oven that will be used for food again – a simple toaster oven dedicated to the purpose can be purchased cheaply.

Safety

2011-10-06T08:02:52Z

Egasimus:

This little section of the Wiki can’t replace '''common sense, knowledge, and a healthy respect''' for the hazards we may encounter when doing DIY projects. Its intent is to offer you a place to start, to learn more about some of the safety issues you may encounter before you face them. The Internet is a great tool to find the answers, so please use it! If you’re in doubt about the safety of what you’re about to undertake, please take the time to work into it, learning as you go, and seek the advice of those with more experience. With the proper attitude, this hobby can be fun and rewarding as well as safe! As with all endeavors, '''putting one’s health and well-being first is the most important thing'''.

[formatting not done yet]

== Electrocution ==
At first glance, it might seem that there is little reason for a discussion of safety among those of us who set out to design, build, and modify effects pedals. After all, most pedals operate on 9 volts, which can make tinkering with them feel about as risky as using a flashlight or grabbing the TV remote. Safety considerations, we might reason, are best directed towards those who build mega-watt amplifiers and rig the PA system in the club.

In truth, of course, not all pedals operate on flashlight-level voltage, and the knowhow (as well as the interest) that the DIYer gains in modifying a pedal can lead naturally to a decision to tear into that amp in the corner that suddenly stopped working. Also, when the sound guy is running late at the club, asking the pedal DIYer to take a look at the way the mixing board is wired into the rest of the rack might not seem like such a stretch. Who else are you going to ask, the drummer?

Not only that, let's face it: except for the rare individual who builds or modifies pedals solely for the aesthetic benefit, it is safe to assume that most DIYers will at some point patch their pedals into a signal train that includes an amp (mega-watt or otherwise). At that point, the fact that such amps just happen to be connected to 120v (in the U.S.) is no trivial detail, especially when one considers that by touching the strings of the guitar, the player becomes part of the circuit. All of a sudden, grabbing the remote, even with wet hands, begins to look at lot less risky.

Fair enough, you might say, but what more can be shared about safety and electrocution risks that hasn't already been repeated on 1000s of webpages? Good question, but here's an even better one. Since many of those webpages do contain excellent and reliable information, why would so many people continue to be killed (or at least burned, scared, and left very apprehensive) by electrocution? Nobody seriously believes, outside of Hollywood, that being electrocuted will leave you with special powers, yet it is apparently true that many people each year take unnecessary risks, and not all of them can be dismissed away as being unfortunate victims of sticking a knife into the toaster while hung-over the morning after a party. At least some of those who are injured or killed did know better, and had considerable experience with electronics and audio gear.

[http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=33010.0 Here's a thread re: transformers - tube amp isolation transformers]

== '''Common Risks and Common Warnings''' ==

In light of that fact, here are a few things that one can do to minimze the risks involved in DIY pedals and related gear.

'''Capacitors'''
One of the most common of warnings has to do with capacitors. The main thing to remember about capacitors, sorry, "caps," is that they can zap you by doing what they are supposed to do. In other words, a cap doesn't have to go bad or give into peer pressure in order to pose a significant danger to you. A cap is designed to store a charge and, given the right conditions, discharge it, usually very quickly.

Things would be greatly simplified, and I for one would feel a lot less nervous if caps had the equivalent of a gas gauge, a way of indicating whether they were charged (i.e., "full" vs. "empty"). Unfortunately, the engineers haven't gotten that far with caps, and even if they do someday come out with "charge gauges" the wise DIYer wouldn't trust them anyway. It is much, much safer to simply assume that the cap is charged, and discharge it. Treat every rifle as though it's loaded, and treat every cap as though it's charged.

There are a number of sites on the web that are helpful in learning how to safely discharge the caps in your audio gear. As an illustration, the website below recommends the use of a large screwdriver, though technically any insulated-handle tool with a conductive (i.e., metal) end would work for discharging the caps. The general idea is simple enough, to short the cap to ground (almost always the chassis) with the metal tip.

http://www.netads.com/~meo/Guitar/Amps/Kalamazoo/Mods/safe.html#zap

While this method will discharge the cap as effectively as any other method, from a safety standpoint it is far from ideal. Not only is there the possibility of a large spark when contact is made, the sudden discharge can startle the user or damage the components that might be, in effect, arc-welded by the spark. The startle-effect might seem trivial, but reactions and "freak-out" thresholds vary from person to person. I once saw a technician toss a reasonably expensive meter into the air when one of the leads unexpectedly shorted across 120v. Everyone laughed, of course, except him; when you're not expecting it, even a static-electricity discharge from the carpet to the doorknob is, however brief, unpleasant.

Far more sensible is to rely on a technique that bleeds the stored charge, usually by way of a large resistor. The resistor can be connected to the cap in various ways, but the key is to make sure that its wire leads are not connected to you. Some excellent suggestions for how one might do this are contained in this recent thread:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=49434.0

One final thought on the cap-discharge issue. It is tempting to think that as long as one avoids contact with the cap, the risk of electrocution will be eliminated. Assuming that the equipment is disconnected from the wall outlet, this is in some respects true. Note, however, that caps are always connected to other components, and in many cases those components will have relatively large, exposed metal leads. Thus, while you might avoid the caps themselves, say, when changing a tube, if you touch a component that is soldered or in some way connected to the cap, you will still be vulnerable. The lugs on the back of the On/Off switch are a good example. Even with the amp (or other device) unplugged, simply brushing against these lugs can be enough to complete a circuit, and whatever charge the caps had been holding onto, they will gladly transfer to the surface of your skin. Some gifts just aren't worth getting.

One caveat: it is common for a discussion of cap-safety to arise in the context of tube amps. Those amps, we hear, operate on as high as 450volts, and this can add to the concern over any caps that might be in such a circuit. The rule of thumb, then, is to discharge any caps you find inside a tube amp, BEFORE touching anything else. But solid-state amps often have large caps in their power sections, and while they may operate on what seems wimpy voltage compared to tube amps, they should be taken just as seriously. With both types of amps (or any other audio gear), always (1) unplug the amp, and (2) discharge the caps before poking around inside.

'''Shake Hands with Mr Electron'''

Another common warning goes something like this: when working on electrical equipment, always keep one hand in your pocket, or behind your back, strapped to your chairleg, and so on. The warning is usually presented as though it is part of the lore of electronics, dating back perhaps to Ben Franklin (it is uncertain whether he actually flew that kite, and less certain that he did so one-handed). Others will say things like, "I remember, as a boy, watching my papa repair those huge television sets, and he ALWAYS kept one hand in his pocket. It kept him from being shocked."

Here's the rationale behind the warning: if you only reach into the back of the amp with one hand, and you happen to make contact with exposed wiring, or in some other way place your hand into the electrical path, you will "only" get a zap on your hand. This is supposed to be qualitatively different from what could happen if you reach in with both mitts. Do it one-handed, the thinking goes, and the electricity will stop at your hand (or wrist, finger, it's never clear where) and be done with it, without going all the way up your arm, across your chest, stopping to zap your heart, and then exiting through your other hand. At this point, the person giving the advice will usually add some analogies, e.g., look at those birds on the electrical wire, and notice how they aren't zapped, look at the rat that crawls along the subway 3rd rail without getting zapped.

I can't say why your father kept one hand in his pocket, but if he wanted to avoid unnecessary risks, there were better ways to go about it. And as far as modelling your behavior on birds and rodents, you can do better. Yes, the fact that birds don't get zapped does illustrate an important point about grounding and the completing of a circuit path. But here's the real point: your ability to do precise electronic work on the inside of your amp is going to be greatly reduced, to put it mildly, if you force yourself to pretend that you lost an arm in combat. From the pessimist's vantage point, that means that you will spend more, not less, time around potentially lethal charges. So if you want to try to solder one-handed, I suppose you have the right. But it makes more sense to ensure that nothing inside of the circuit can zap you in the first place.

Furthermore, the underlying idea, that the current will never get near your heart if you only have one hand on that charged cap, simply doesn't have physics or physiology on its side. At most, you will make the electricity work a little harder to kill you, and it can cause serious damage without short-circuiting your heart in any case. So, in the end, the one-hand rule is sort of like recommending that someone wear a leather jacket to for protection when confronting a grizzly bear. The jacket will slow the bear down, but there are much better ways to improve your odds of surviving.

An exception to this would be those rare occasions when you need to poke around in an amp while it is on. If you're unsure, you really should think about paying a pro to do this, since even pros don't do it that often or that casually. There are, admittedly, some times when you can troubleshoot a live circuit by gently nudging a wire this way or that (to see what effect this has on hum, for instance). But why take risks when you don't have to? Don't just keep one of your hands out of the way, keep them both out of the way by using a long wooden stick to do the prodding. This, once more, applies only if you're absolutely sure that prodding is the best way. Even with a long stick, you're still inches away from a serious health risk.

== Soldering Hazards ==

I know, I know…we’ve all soldered 100’s of times, and nothing went wrong. But it can’t hurt to take a few minutes to read this, and make sure we’re not missing anything, can it? Aside from the obvious (and very real) fire hazards posed by a hot soldering iron, there can be a couple of other items we don’t think much about that could pose safety issues. For instance, while the concentrations of dangerous compounds we’re likely to encounter in the DIY world are usually not high, the name of the game is to avoid cumulative exposures. Just as smoking one cigarette isn't likely to cause a whole lot of damage, repeatedly doing so can lead to serious health consequences.

Solder contains lead, and usually has a rosin core that cleans and prepares the surfaces to be joined. Exposure to excessive levels of lead can cause neurologic and reproductive damage. On one hand, then, it is lucky for us that the amounts of lead commonly encountered while building DIY equipment are not high. On the other hand, since the best exposure where lead is concerned is none at all, some caution is in order.

What steps can one take? The basic rules for handling solder are to avoid touching your mouth, other people, eating/drinking/smoking after contact, or otherwise ingesting the stuff. The most likely way to absorb lead from solder is from unintentional ingestion. When you’re done soldering, or you just decide to take a break, wash your hands! Not only will this keep the lead from entering your body, it will keep any traces off of those that you touch. Also, it makes sense to clean up your solder bits at your workstation, and avoid tracking them all over the house ;o)

The second hazard posed by solder is the fumes that are released on contact with a hot iron. These fumes can contain gaseous lead and formaldehyde, as well as anything else that may be present in the rosin. Again, while there is no clear evidence concerning just how much of the nasty substances ar present in the fumes, the simplest way to minimize any risks would be to run a small fan and blow the stuff away from your face. If nothing else, this will essentially dilute the concentration of the hazardous stuff that you may be exposed to. Take a tip from the pros who work in respirators all day: if you can smell the fumes, you’re inhaling them!

And finally, to restate the obvious…probably the highest danger associated with soldering is the hot iron itself. Be sure that it’s in good condition, with no damaged insulation, etc. And how many of us have accidentally left the thing on overnight (or for days)? Workstations can be purchased or built that operate on a timer, which will automatically turn the iron off after a specified time period. But one shouldn’t rely totally on a ‘dummy system’; don’t walk away from a hot iron, and be sure it’s off after a soldering session! If you really want to minimize your risks, make a habit of unplugging the cord.

An article can’t replace common sense at the workstation, and this one isn’t meant to be “the last word” on soldering safety. You may encounter other hazards – learning to identify and deal with them will keep you safe and building your creations for years to come!

== '''Safety When Etching Printed Circuit Boards''' ==

When building many DIY projects, it's natural to want to make your own printed circuit board. But this can, not surprisingly, lead to another safety and health issue: the etchants used to dissolve the copper from the board, leaving the traces behind, can pose some health risks. Nothing to be TOO worried about, but once again, something to keep in mind when using, and disposing of, these chemicals! This article is not a complete guide to using these chemicals, but it's hoped that it will point those who are interested in safety in the right direction.

The general consensus seems to be this: what we call etchants are in reality acids and they CAN burn you. If this concerns you, and it should, the easiest course would be to simply explore the possibility of ordering pre-made circuit boards. If using a moderately strong acid doesn’t send up red flags with you, then by all means proceed with knowledge, caution, and respect!

'''BASIC SAFETY''':
When working with etchants, bear in mind that these acids can burn skin, eyes, and even lungs! You'll need to follow basic chemistry-lab safety practices. For example, always work in a safe place, which is to say one free of obstacles/trip hazards, and one that is also WELL-VENTILATED (e.g., a garage?). A safe place would also be clear of objects that may be ruined by contact with the acid. Wear appropriate (i.e., old) clothing, eye protection, acid-resistant gloves, and do not breath the fumes that may be present near the work area. Also, as obvious as it might sound, make sure to keep your face away from the etching container!

Etchants and the metals that they dissolve are poisonous. This means that you should not use containers, utensils, and the like which could be re-used in the kitchen! No eating, drinking, or smoking during use, and don’t leave etchant where a pet or child could come into contact with it. If heating the etchant, don’t boil it or cause it to spill, and use the same respect that you show towards electricity when you are the presence of liquids that you always would.

Lastly, read and understand the manufacturer’s cautions/first aid information, and have a look at the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the compounds you are working with. Know how to deal with spills, ingestion, contact with eyes and other first aid issues before beginning work, and be ready to act - keep whatever materials you might need, such as fresh water and baking soda, nearby. Never dispose of raw, spent etchant down the sink or toilet, or dump it on the ground. Generally speaking, you should keep it out of the trash, since improper disposal could lead to serious environmental clean-up costs, the unintended poisoning of drinking water wells and the like. There are enough challenges in building pedals without trying to do it with the EPA on your case!

Much has been written on this subject in the forum (thanks to those who took the time to find the info), so I’ve compiled the information that follows from there. Please take the time to read through these valuable forum entries on the subject. Remember, as with any DIY project, your understanding of the risks that may be present, and having a plan to deal with them, will help ensure your safety as you enjoy this hobby.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ferric Chloride A.K.A. Iron Trichloride, Iron Perchloride
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/liquid/415-liquid.pdf

Advantages:
Easy to use, sold in premixed form.
Fairly inexpensive and easy to find.
Does a very good job etching.

Disadvantages:
Can cause chemical burns! See MSDS for other health concerns.
Stains almost everything it comes into contact with.
Will corrode other metals.
The chemicals dark reddish color makes it difficult to check etching progress.

Tips:
Works best when warmed. 100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit or 38 - 49 degrees Celsius is hot enought. Do Not Boil!
Aerating and or agitating also speeds etching.

Disposal: I can't explain it any better than Mark Hammer already has. Thanks Mark!
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.msg377103#msg377103

Baking soda (NOT baking powder) will produce a chemical reaction with ferric chloride that will render the solution relatively harmless to the environment. It is how I have been disposing of my etchant for decades now.

Note the following, though:

Like any rapid chemical reaction, heat is produced so you do NOT want to engage in this on a large and rapid scale; a little bit at a time, wait for it to settle down, and then continue with a bit more.

The reaction between the acid and the soda produces a foam-like substance which, in turn, dries into something that looks like rust-coloured styrofoam. The byproducts of the baking-soda/ferric-chloride interaction expand to occupy about 7-10x the volume of the original ingredients. This means that if you have a tub of etchant, filled to the brim, and you dump a box of baking soda into it, you can expect the reaction to cause an overflow of the container, and very likely cover your workspace with ooze within 20 seconds or so. If that doesn't sound bad enough, keep in mind that the "ooze" is partly de-activated byproduct by also not-yet-deactivated etchant which will stain for life most anything that it comes into contact with. So, you will need a large container (or else place small amounts of your main etchant bath in a medium container) to contain the whole mess or else you risk something you will deeply regret.

One thing that increases the hazard level is the fact that the etchant may LOOK completely treated when it isn't. For example, you may have just a small residual film at the bottom of the container, yet when you dump a few tablespoons of soda on it, it might start to foam like crazy. In that case, you will want to keep applying the soda until the rust-coloured mess you have is fairly dry in texture. Once you have turned it from wet and dangerous into dry and harmless, you can simply pour all those crumbly bits into a garbage bag and set it out with all the other household waste.

Finally, etchant can often be extended for use a bit longer. If you have a way of safely storing and transferring the stuff to another container, let your bath sit idly for a couple of days (at least) so that all the copper precipitates are sitting like a thick mud at the bottom. GENTLY pour the still-useful etchant from the top into another container. Now you can dump your baking soda into the thick stuff to finish using up whatever molecules of ferric chloride are still around.

Ammonium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/410.pdf[url]

Sodium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/4101.pdf

== Painting Safety ==

Spray-painting your DIY enclosures is not a high-risk endeavor, but there are still a few things to keep in mind.

===Ventilation===
When using spray paints and solvents, always work in a well-ventilated area. The build-up of paint fumes can cause headaches, neurological damage, and respiratory distress, and the strong odor is a sign that you’re being exposed to the numerous chemicals present in the paint. You want to minimize how much of the stuff you breathe in. Work in short bursts so that you don’t have to be in the same area with the fumes for a long period of time. Respirators aren’t a bad idea, but they don’t tell you how much oxygen is present. For proper use they require professional fit-testing and training in what they can and cannot do, which cartridges to use, etc.

===Eye protection===
Always wear appropriate eye protection when painting. It’s easy to get the spray nozzle reversed and take a hit in the face!

===Fire Hazards===
Paint and solvents are HIGHLY FLAMMABLE! Don’t store them where they can pose a fire risk, and be sure solvents are well-labeled. Don’t use them around potential sources of ignition (smoking materials, furnaces, or any other sources of flame or spark). Theoretically, enough fumes could be generated in an enclosed area, such as a small workshop, to create a combustible atmosphere - remember to ventilate! Also keep in mind that rags soaked in paints and solvents should be spread over a surface, such as a workbench, when you are done, and left to thoroughly dry – don’t toss them in the trash, as they could spontaneously combust!!

===Solvents===
It was pretty common in earlier years to clean up equipment and even body parts with solvents such as paint thinner. On one hand, this was always very effective. On the other hand, it’s also provides one of the most direct routes to toxic exposure! The compounds present in solvents, even low-VOC ones, can cause liver damage, and many are carcinogenic in addition to being highly flammable. You can, in short, find better ways to clean up. Wash with soap and water if you get some on your hands. A good approach would be to save the thinner for cleaning overspray (preferably while wearing gloves), and get one of the citrus-based non-toxic hand cleaners for cleaning any skin.

== '''Odds & Ends''' ==
=== Mercury ===
This has come up a couple of times in the forum, so it may be worth mentioning. Position-sensitive switches, such as those found in thermostats, often contain mercury, a poisonous liquid metal. If the glass switch vial breaks, the small quantity of mercury inside can get loose and be tracked everywhere. This is a problem, since, however cool merc might be to look at, the substance is toxic if ingested, and will release poisonous fumes if heated. If a spill happens to you, do not touch the mercury! It can be scooped up with a couple of pieces of cardboard or a dustpan and disposed of properly. The key word here is ''properly''. Don’t casually discard this substance! Here is a link to disposal and other mercury-related information:
http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/hazwaste/mercury/faq/spills.htm

Remember: Be sure not to touch your mouth before you are able to thoroughly wash up!

===PCB dust===
When working with printed circuit board material, it may be necessary to cut it to shape. There are many ways to do this (hack saw, Dremel, score-and-snap…), but in all cases one should try to create as little dust as possible during the process. This dust can cause health problems – therefore, a N95 (or better) rated paper-style dust mask should be worn to minimize exposure. And the usual caveat of proper ventilation applies.

===The other "PCBs"===
Polychlorinated Biphenyls: First, the bad news. PCBs are a highly toxic chemical once used as transformer oil and capacitor dielectric before the dangers associated with them were known. Today, these chemicals are considered dangerous enough that their use in industry is outlawed. The good news is that there is a very small – some might say negligable – risk that you may one day encounter PCBs in old equipment. Be aware that they are out there lurking in some old components. Washing up thoroughly after handling parts and avoiding gel or oil-like stuff you might encounter can help keep you safe.

===Metal ‘dust’=== – When drilling holes in an enclosure, watch out for the shavings. If the particles are just the right size, they could get airborne and be inhaled. A much greater risk is that they’ll be forced into the skin of your fingers and cause discomfort or even splinters, especially if the holes you’ve drilled are rough. Clean them up when you’re done so they don’t spread around your work surface and get into things!

===Safe cooking=== - A lot of people talk about ‘cooking’ their enclosures once they’ve been painted, to bake the finish on and make it cure faster. Opinions vary on the times and temperatures that this operation should use. A baking temp of 200F for 20-30 mins. seems to be the norm. That might seem like nothing to worry about, especially since a loaf of bread might be baked at 375 for almost an hour (and pizzas are often baked at 500F). But two strong issues arise if you try this at home with your enclosures. First, baking an enclosure can present a respectable fire and/or burn hazard! Second, the fumes released by the process are definitely of a toxic nature. So once more, ventilate, and do your baking outdoors if possible! Best of all would be to never use an oven that will be used for food again – a simple toaster oven dedicated to the purpose can be purchased cheaply.

Safety

2011-10-06T07:58:57Z

Egasimus:

This little section of the Wiki can’t replace '''common sense, knowledge, and a healthy respect''' for the hazards we may encounter when doing DIY projects. Its intent is to offer you a place to start, to learn more about some of the safety issues you may encounter before you face them. The Internet is a great tool to find the answers, so please use it! If you’re in doubt about the safety of what you’re about to undertake, please take the time to work into it, learning as you go, and seek the advice of those with more experience. With the proper attitude, this hobby can be fun and rewarding as well as safe! As with all endeavors, '''putting one’s health and well-being first is the most important thing'''.

[formatting not done yet]

== Electrocution ==
At first glance, it might seem that there is little reason for a discussion of safety among those of us who set out to design, build, and modify effects pedals. After all, most pedals operate on 9 volts, which can make tinkering with them feel about as risky as using a flashlight or grabbing the TV remote. Safety considerations, we might reason, are best directed towards those who build mega-watt amplifiers and rig the PA system in the club.

In truth, of course, not all pedals operate on flashlight-level voltage, and the knowhow (as well as the interest) that the DIYer gains in modifying a pedal can lead naturally to a decision to tear into that amp in the corner that suddenly stopped working. Also, when the sound guy is running late at the club, asking the pedal DIYer to take a look at the way the mixing board is wired into the rest of the rack might not seem like such a stretch. Who else are you going to ask, the drummer?

Not only that, let's face it: except for the rare individual who builds or modifies pedals solely for the aesthetic benefit, it is safe to assume that most DIYers will at some point patch their pedals into a signal train that includes an amp (mega-watt or otherwise). At that point, the fact that such amps just happen to be connected to 120v (in the U.S.) is no trivial detail, especially when one considers that by touching the strings of the guitar, the player becomes part of the circuit. All of a sudden, grabbing the remote, even with wet hands, begins to look at lot less risky.

Fair enough, you might say, but what more can be shared about safety and electrocution risks that hasn't already been repeated on 1000s of webpages? Good question, but here's an even better one. Since many of those webpages do contain excellent and reliable information, why would so many people continue to be killed (or at least burned, scared, and left very apprehensive) by electrocution? Nobody seriously believes, outside of Hollywood, that being electrocuted will leave you with special powers, yet it is apparently true that many people each year take unnecessary risks, and not all of them can be dismissed away as being unfortunate victims of sticking a knife into the toaster while hung-over the morning after a party. At least some of those who are injured or killed did know better, and had considerable experience with electronics and audio gear.

[http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=33010.0 Here's a thread re: transformers - tube amp isolation transformers]

== '''Common Risks and Common Warnings''' ==

In light of that fact, here are a few things that one can do to minimze the risks involved in DIY pedals and related gear.

'''Capacitors'''
One of the most common of warnings has to do with capacitors. The main thing to remember about capacitors, sorry, "caps," is that they can zap you by doing what they are supposed to do. In other words, a cap doesn't have to go bad or give into peer pressure in order to pose a significant danger to you. A cap is designed to store a charge and, given the right conditions, discharge it, usually very quickly.

Things would be greatly simplified, and I for one would feel a lot less nervous if caps had the equivalent of a gas gauge, a way of indicating whether they were charged (i.e., "full" vs. "empty"). Unfortunately, the engineers haven't gotten that far with caps, and even if they do someday come out with "charge gauges" the wise DIYer wouldn't trust them anyway. It is much, much safer to simply assume that the cap is charged, and discharge it. Treat every rifle as though it's loaded, and treat every cap as though it's charged.

There are a number of sites on the web that are helpful in learning how to safely discharge the caps in your audio gear. As an illustration, the website below recommends the use of a large screwdriver, though technically any insulated-handle tool with a conductive (i.e., metal) end would work for discharging the caps. The general idea is simple enough, to short the cap to ground (almost always the chassis) with the metal tip.

http://www.netads.com/~meo/Guitar/Amps/Kalamazoo/Mods/safe.html#zap

While this method will discharge the cap as effectively as any other method, from a safety standpoint it is far from ideal. Not only is there the possibility of a large spark when contact is made, the sudden discharge can startle the user or damage the components that might be, in effect, arc-welded by the spark. The startle-effect might seem trivial, but reactions and "freak-out" thresholds vary from person to person. I once saw a technician toss a reasonably expensive meter into the air when one of the leads unexpectedly shorted across 120v. Everyone laughed, of course, except him; when you're not expecting it, even a static-electricity discharge from the carpet to the doorknob is, however brief, unpleasant.

Far more sensible is to rely on a technique that bleeds the stored charge, usually by way of a large resistor. The resistor can be connected to the cap in various ways, but the key is to make sure that its wire leads are not connected to you. Some excellent suggestions for how one might do this are contained in this recent thread:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=49434.0

One final thought on the cap-discharge issue. It is tempting to think that as long as one avoids contact with the cap, the risk of electrocution will be eliminated. Assuming that the equipment is disconnected from the wall outlet, this is in some respects true. Note, however, that caps are always connected to other components, and in many cases those components will have relatively large, exposed metal leads. Thus, while you might avoid the caps themselves, say, when changing a tube, if you touch a component that is soldered or in some way connected to the cap, you will still be vulnerable. The lugs on the back of the On/Off switch are a good example. Even with the amp (or other device) unplugged, simply brushing against these lugs can be enough to complete a circuit, and whatever charge the caps had been holding onto, they will gladly transfer to the surface of your skin. Some gifts just aren't worth getting.

One caveat: it is common for a discussion of cap-safety to arise in the context of tube amps. Those amps, we hear, operate on as high as 450volts, and this can add to the concern over any caps that might be in such a circuit. The rule of thumb, then, is to discharge any caps you find inside a tube amp, BEFORE touching anything else. But solid-state amps often have large caps in their power sections, and while they may operate on what seems wimpy voltage compared to tube amps, they should be taken just as seriously. With both types of amps (or any other audio gear), always (1) unplug the amp, and (2) discharge the caps before poking around inside.

'''Shake Hands with Mr Electron'''

Another common warning goes something like this: when working on electrical equipment, always keep one hand in your pocket, or behind your back, strapped to your chairleg, and so on. The warning is usually presented as though it is part of the lore of electronics, dating back perhaps to Ben Franklin (it is uncertain whether he actually flew that kite, and less certain that he did so one-handed). Others will say things like, "I remember, as a boy, watching my papa repair those huge television sets, and he ALWAYS kept one hand in his pocket. It kept him from being shocked."

Here's the rationale behind the warning: if you only reach into the back of the amp with one hand, and you happen to make contact with exposed wiring, or in some other way place your hand into the electrical path, you will "only" get a zap on your hand. This is supposed to be qualitatively different from what could happen if you reach in with both mitts. Do it one-handed, the thinking goes, and the electricity will stop at your hand (or wrist, finger, it's never clear where) and be done with it, without going all the way up your arm, across your chest, stopping to zap your heart, and then exiting through your other hand. At this point, the person giving the advice will usually add some analogies, e.g., look at those birds on the electrical wire, and notice how they aren't zapped, look at the rat that crawls along the subway 3rd rail without getting zapped.

I can't say why your father kept one hand in his pocket, but if he wanted to avoid unnecessary risks, there were better ways to go about it. And as far as modelling your behavior on birds and rodents, you can do better. Yes, the fact that birds don't get zapped does illustrate an important point about grounding and the completing of a circuit path. But here's the real point: your ability to do precise electronic work on the inside of your amp is going to be greatly reduced, to put it mildly, if you force yourself to pretend that you lost an arm in combat. From the pessimist's vantage point, that means that you will spend more, not less, time around potentially lethal charges. So if you want to try to solder one-handed, I suppose you have the right. But it makes more sense to ensure that nothing inside of the circuit can zap you in the first place.

Furthermore, the underlying idea, that the current will never get near your heart if you only have one hand on that charged cap, simply doesn't have physics or physiology on its side. At most, you will make the electricity work a little harder to kill you, and it can cause serious damage without short-circuiting your heart in any case. So, in the end, the one-hand rule is sort of like recommending that someone wear a leather jacket to for protection when confronting a grizzly bear. The jacket will slow the bear down, but there are much better ways to improve your odds of surviving.

An exception to this would be those rare occasions when you need to poke around in an amp while it is on. If you're unsure, you really should think about paying a pro to do this, since even pros don't do it that often or that casually. There are, admittedly, some times when you can troubleshoot a live circuit by gently nudging a wire this way or that (to see what effect this has on hum, for instance). But why take risks when you don't have to? Don't just keep one of your hands out of the way, keep them both out of the way by using a long wooden stick to do the prodding. This, once more, applies only if you're absolutely sure that prodding is the best way. Even with a long stick, you're still inches away from a serious health risk.

== Soldering Hazards ==

I know, I know…we’ve all soldered 100’s of times, and nothing went wrong. But it can’t hurt to take a few minutes to read this, and make sure we’re not missing anything, can it? Aside from the obvious (and very real) fire hazards posed by a hot soldering iron, there can be a couple of other items we don’t think much about that could pose safety issues. For instance, while the concentrations of dangerous compounds we’re likely to encounter in the DIY world are usually not high, the name of the game is to avoid cumulative exposures. Just as smoking one cigarette isn't likely to cause a whole lot of damage, repeatedly doing so can lead to serious health consequences.

Solder contains lead, and usually has a rosin core that cleans and prepares the surfaces to be joined. Exposure to excessive levels of lead can cause neurologic and reproductive damage. On one hand, then, it is lucky for us that the amounts of lead commonly encountered while building DIY equipment are not high. On the other hand, since the best exposure where lead is concerned is none at all, some caution is in order.

What steps can one take? The basic rules for handling solder are to avoid touching your mouth, other people, eating/drinking/smoking after contact, or otherwise ingesting the stuff. The most likely way to absorb lead from solder is from unintentional ingestion. When you’re done soldering, or you just decide to take a break, wash your hands! Not only will this keep the lead from entering your body, it will keep any traces off of those that you touch. Also, it makes sense to clean up your solder bits at your workstation, and avoid tracking them all over the house ;o)

The second hazard posed by solder is the fumes that are released on contact with a hot iron. These fumes can contain gaseous lead and formaldehyde, as well as anything else that may be present in the rosin. Again, while there is no clear evidence concerning just how much of the nasty substances ar present in the fumes, the simplest way to minimize any risks would be to run a small fan and blow the stuff away from your face. If nothing else, this will essentially dilute the concentration of the hazardous stuff that you may be exposed to. Take a tip from the pros who work in respirators all day: if you can smell the fumes, you’re inhaling them!

And finally, to restate the obvious…probably the highest danger associated with soldering is the hot iron itself. Be sure that it’s in good condition, with no damaged insulation, etc. And how many of us have accidentally left the thing on overnight (or for days)? Workstations can be purchased or built that operate on a timer, which will automatically turn the iron off after a specified time period. But one shouldn’t rely totally on a ‘dummy system’; don’t walk away from a hot iron, and be sure it’s off after a soldering session! If you really want to minimize your risks, make a habit of unplugging the cord.

An article can’t replace common sense at the workstation, and this one isn’t meant to be “the last word” on soldering safety. You may encounter other hazards – learning to identify and deal with them will keep you safe and building your creations for years to come!

== '''Safety When Etching Printed Circuit Boards''' ==

When building many DIY projects, it's natural to want to make your own printed circuit board. But this can, not surprisingly, lead to another safety and health issue: the etchants used to dissolve the copper from the board, leaving the traces behind, can pose some health risks. Nothing to be TOO worried about, but once again, something to keep in mind when using, and disposing of, these chemicals! This article is not a complete guide to using these chemicals, but it's hoped that it will point those who are interested in safety in the right direction.

The general consensus seems to be this: what we call etchants are in reality acids and they CAN burn you. If this concerns you, and it should, the easiest course would be to simply explore the possibility of ordering pre-made circuit boards. If using a moderately strong acid doesn’t send up red flags with you, then by all means proceed with knowledge, caution, and respect!

'''BASIC SAFETY''':
When working with etchants, bear in mind that these acids can burn skin, eyes, and even lungs! You'll need to follow basic chemistry-lab safety practices. For example, always work in a safe place, which is to say one free of obstacles/trip hazards, and one that is also WELL-VENTILATED (e.g., a garage?). A safe place would also be clear of objects that may be ruined by contact with the acid. Wear appropriate (i.e., old) clothing, eye protection, acid-resistant gloves, and do not breath the fumes that may be present near the work area. Also, as obvious as it might sound, make sure to keep your face away from the etching container!

Etchants and the metals that they dissolve are poisonous. This means that you should not use containers, utensils, and the like which could be re-used in the kitchen! No eating, drinking, or smoking during use, and don’t leave etchant where a pet or child could come into contact with it. If heating the etchant, don’t boil it or cause it to spill, and use the same respect that you show towards electricity when you are the presence of liquids that you always would.

Lastly, read and understand the manufacturer’s cautions/first aid information, and have a look at the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the compounds you are working with. Know how to deal with spills, ingestion, contact with eyes and other first aid issues before beginning work, and be ready to act - keep whatever materials you might need, such as fresh water and baking soda, nearby. Never dispose of raw, spent etchant down the sink or toilet, or dump it on the ground. Generally speaking, you should keep it out of the trash, since improper disposal could lead to serious environmental clean-up costs, the unintended poisoning of drinking water wells and the like. There are enough challenges in building pedals without trying to do it with the EPA on your case!

Much has been written on this subject in the forum (thanks to those who took the time to find the info), so I’ve compiled the information that follows from there. Please take the time to read through these valuable forum entries on the subject. Remember, as with any DIY project, your understanding of the risks that may be present, and having a plan to deal with them, will help ensure your safety as you enjoy this hobby.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ferric Chloride A.K.A. Iron Trichloride, Iron Perchloride
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/liquid/415-liquid.pdf

Advantages:
Easy to use, sold in premixed form.
Fairly inexpensive and easy to find.
Does a very good job etching.

Disadvantages:
Can cause chemical burns! See MSDS for other health concerns.
Stains almost everything it comes into contact with.
Will corrode other metals.
The chemicals dark reddish color makes it difficult to check etching progress.

Tips:
Works best when warmed. 100 - 120 degrees Fahrenheit or 38 - 49 degrees Celsius is hot enought. Do Not Boil!
Aerating and or agitating also speeds etching.

Disposal: I can't explain it any better than Mark Hammer already has. Thanks Mark!
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.msg377103#msg377103

Baking soda (NOT baking powder) will produce a chemical reaction with ferric chloride that will render the solution relatively harmless to the environment. It is how I have been disposing of my etchant for decades now.

Note the following, though:

Like any rapid chemical reaction, heat is produced so you do NOT want to engage in this on a large and rapid scale; a little bit at a time, wait for it to settle down, and then continue with a bit more.

The reaction between the acid and the soda produces a foam-like substance which, in turn, dries into something that looks like rust-coloured styrofoam. The byproducts of the baking-soda/ferric-chloride interaction expand to occupy about 7-10x the volume of the original ingredients. This means that if you have a tub of etchant, filled to the brim, and you dump a box of baking soda into it, you can expect the reaction to cause an overflow of the container, and very likely cover your workspace with ooze within 20 seconds or so. If that doesn't sound bad enough, keep in mind that the "ooze" is partly de-activated byproduct by also not-yet-deactivated etchant which will stain for life most anything that it comes into contact with. So, you will need a large container (or else place small amounts of your main etchant bath in a medium container) to contain the whole mess or else you risk something you will deeply regret.

One thing that increases the hazard level is the fact that the etchant may LOOK completely treated when it isn't. For example, you may have just a small residual film at the bottom of the container, yet when you dump a few tablespoons of soda on it, it might start to foam like crazy. In that case, you will want to keep applying the soda until the rust-coloured mess you have is fairly dry in texture. Once you have turned it from wet and dangerous into dry and harmless, you can simply pour all those crumbly bits into a garbage bag and set it out with all the other household waste.

Finally, etchant can often be extended for use a bit longer. If you have a way of safely storing and transferring the stuff to another container, let your bath sit idly for a couple of days (at least) so that all the copper precipitates are sitting like a thick mud at the bottom. GENTLY pour the still-useful etchant from the top into another container. Now you can dump your baking soda into the thick stuff to finish using up whatever molecules of ferric chloride are still around.

Ammonium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/410.pdf[url]

Sodium PerSulphate
MSDS [url]http://www.mgchemicals.com/msds/english/solids/4101.pdf

== '''Painting Safety''' ==

Spray painting your DIY enclosures is not a high-risk endeavor, but there are still a few things to keep in mind.

'''Ventilation''': When using spray paints and solvents, always work in a well-ventilated area. The build-up of paint fumes can cause headaches, neurological damage, and respiratory distress, and the strong odor is a sign that you’re being exposed to the numerous chemicals present in the paint. You want to minimize how much of the stuff you breathe in. Work in short bursts so that you don’t have to be in the same area with the fumes for a long period of time. Respirators aren’t a bad idea, but they don’t tell you how much oxygen is present. For proper use they require professional fit-testing and training in what they can and cannot do, which cartridges to use, etc.

'''Eye protection''': Always wear appropriate eye protection when painting. It’s easy to get the spray nozzle reversed and take a hit in the face!

'''Fire Hazards''': Paint and solvents are HIGHLY FLAMMABLE! Don’t store them where they can pose a fire risk, and be sure solvents are well-labeled. Don’t use them around potential sources of ignition (smoking materials, furnaces, or any other sources of flame or spark). Theoretically, enough fumes could be generated in an enclosed area, such as a small workshop, to create a combustible atmosphere - remember to ventilate! Also keep in mind that rags soaked in paints and solvents should be spread over a surface, such as a workbench, when you are done, and left to thoroughly dry – don’t toss them in the trash, as they could spontaneously combust!!

'''Solvents''': It was pretty common in earlier years to clean up equipment and even body parts with solvents such as paint thinner. On one hand, this was always very effective. On the other hand, it’s also provides one of the most direct routes to toxic exposure! The compounds present in solvents, even low-VOC ones, can cause liver damage, and many are carcinogenic in addition to being highly flammable. You can, in short, find better ways to clean up. Wash with soap and water if you get some on your hands. A good approach would be to save the thinner for cleaning overspray (preferably while wearing gloves), and get one of the citrus-based non-toxic hand cleaners for cleaning any skin.

== '''Odds & Ends''' ==
'''Mercury''': This has come up a couple of times in the forum, so it may be worth mentioning. Position-sensitive switches, such as those found in thermostats, often contain mercury, a poisonous liquid metal. If the glass switch vial breaks, the small quantity of mercury inside can get loose and be tracked everywhere. This is a problem, since, however cool merc might be to look at, the substance is toxic if ingested, and will release poisonous fumes if heated. If a spill happens to you, do not touch the mercury! It can be scooped up with a couple of pieces of cardboard or a dustpan and disposed of properly. The key word here is ''properly''. Don’t casually discard this substance! Here is a link to disposal and other mercury-related information:
http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/hazwaste/mercury/faq/spills.htm

Remember: Be sure not to touch your mouth before you are able to thoroughly wash up!

'''PCB dust''': When working with printed circuit board material, it may be necessary to cut it to shape. There are many ways to do this (hack saw, Dremel, score-and-snap…), but in all cases one should try to create as little dust as possible during the process. This dust can cause health problems – therefore, a N95 (or better) rated paper-style dust mask should be worn to minimize exposure. And the usual caveat of proper ventilation applies.

'''The other PCBs''' – Polychlorinated Biphenyls: First, the bad news. PCBs are a highly toxic chemical once used as transformer oil and capacitor dielectric before the dangers associated with them were known. Today, these chemicals are considered dangerous enough that their use in industry is outlawed. The good news is that there is a very small – some might say negligable – risk that you may one day encounter PCBs in old equipment. Be aware that they are out there lurking in some old components. Washing up thoroughly after handling parts and avoiding gel or oil-like stuff you might encounter can help keep you safe.

'''Metal ‘dust’''' – When drilling holes in an enclosure, watch out for the shavings. If the particles are just the right size, they could get airborne and be inhaled. A much greater risk is that they’ll be forced into the skin of your fingers and cause discomfort or even splinters, especially if the holes you’ve drilled are rough. Clean them up when you’re done so they don’t spread around your work surface and get into things!

'''Safe cooking''' - A lot of people talk about ‘cooking’ their enclosures once they’ve been painted, to bake the finish on and make it cure faster. Opinions vary on the times and temperatures that this operation should use. A baking temp of 200F for 20-30 mins. seems to be the norm. That might seem like nothing to worry about, especially since a loaf of bread might be baked at 375 for almost an hour (and pizzas are often baked at 500F). But two strong issues arise if you try this at home with your enclosures. First, baking an enclosure can present a respectable fire and/or burn hazard! Second, the fumes released by the process are definitely of a toxic nature. So once more, ventilate, and do your baking outdoors if possible! Best of all would be to never use an oven that will be used for food again – a simple toaster oven dedicated to the purpose can be purchased cheaply.

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2011-10-06T07:56:25Z

Egasimus:

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Pedal-specific info

2011-10-05T09:21:51Z

Egasimus:

'''I'm adding these as I have time, grabbing photos from the photo page and overviews from whereever I can get them. Any help is ''greatly'' appreciated. - Dave_B'''

== Boosters ==
[[:Category:Boosters]]

== Overdrives ==
[[:Category:Overdrive]]
* [[Colorsound Overdriver]] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/ColOvr.mp3 - Overdriver MP3 sound sample]
* [http://generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?Itemid==55 General Guitar Gadget's Blue Magic]
* [[Ampeg Scrambler]]
* [http://diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==25929 Fooltone] The pdf on page one is gone, but a good link to the schematic is on page two.
* [[Hotcake]]

== Distortion ==
[[:Category:Distortion]]
* [[Big Muff]] by [[Electro-Harmonix]]. Several versions of the BMP are here.
* [[Harmonic Percolator]] by [[Interfax]]
* [[Brown Sound In A Box II]]
* [[Dr. Boogey]] - Emulation of Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Solo Head

==== Aron Nelson ====
:''' Shaka Express ''' -- Hi-gain distortion with mid control.
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/ShakaExpress.pdf Shaka Express Schematic PDF] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/ExpressSim.mp3 - Sound Sample]

:''' Booster 2.5''' FET overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/booster25.JPG Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/boost25.mp3 - Sound Sample]

:''' Shaka HV''' Higher Voltage Overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/shakahv.jpg Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/hv30.mp3 - 30 volts low to medium drive sample] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/hv30UP.mp3 - 30 volts Hi-drive sample]

:'''Shaka Braddah 3''' Op amp->FET overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/shaka3.jpg Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/sb3AMP.mp3 - SB3->amp Sound Sample]

:'''Shaka Tube''' Low-voltage op amp->12AX7 overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==18369.0 Schematics] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/shakaTubeDemo.mp3 - Sound Sample]

==== Joe Davisson circuits ====
:''' Obsidian ''' -- Metal distortion with a BMP tone control.
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/obsidian.html Schematic]
:''' Vulcan '''
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/vulcan.html Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/Vulcan.mp3 - MP3 sound sample]
:''' Blackfire ''' --
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/blackfire.html Schematic]

==== CD4049 circuits: TSF, Red Llama, EH Hot Tubes, Hot Harmonics ... ====
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==45084.0 4049 distortion + opamp]

==== Insane and Novelty Distortion Circuits ====
''' Uglyface '''
* [http://home-wrecker.com/uglyface.html Building An Uglyface]

''' Skyripper ''' -- Quite Possibly The World's Greatest Fuzz
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/SkyripperSCHEM6-24.jpg Schematic]
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/Skyripper!picture.jpg Example build]
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/NewRip1.mp3 MP3 sample]

==== NVN Joe Gagan Fuzz Schematics ====
* ''' Bronto Boost ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Bronto_Boostv01.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv3.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv4.sized.gif]
* ''' Buffer ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/buff.sized.gif]
* ''' Decade ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Decade.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DecadePotDiagram.sized.gif]
* ''' Dino Drive ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoDrive.sized.gif]
* ''' Dino Fuzz Booster ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoFuzzBooster1.sized.gif]
* ''' Dinosaur Fuzz ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoFuzzGainPotMod.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinosaurFuzz_v2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinosaurFuzzv1.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoToneMod.sized.gif]
* ''' Easy Face ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacev1.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacev2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewBlendCap.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewGain_Mod.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewSwitchCap.sized.jpg]
* ''' Easy Ripper ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZRipper.jpg]
* ''' GT Fuz ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/GTFuzz.sized.jpg]
* ''' Input Bias Mod ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/InputBiasMod.jpg]
* ''' Lefty Idiot Wah ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/LeftyIdiotWah.gif]
* ''' Nitro Burner ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Nitroburner.sized.jpg]
* ''' Meterless Nitro Burner ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/NitroburnerNo_Meter.sized.gif]
* ''' Skyripper 1 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv1.sized.gif]
* ''' Skyripper 2 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv2.sized.jpg]
* ''' Skyripper 3 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv3.sized.jpg]
* ''' Tape Measure Boost ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TapeMeasureBoost.gif]
* ''' Tarpit Melt Down 2''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TarpitMeltdownv2.sized.gif]
* ''' Tarpit Melt Down 3 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TarpitMeltdownv3.sized.gif]
* ''' Tone Dog 1 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Tone_Dog1.sized.gif]
* ''' Tone Dog 2 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Tonedog2.sized.gif]

== Compressors ==
[[:Category:Compressors]]

Also see [http://www.muzique.com/news/compressor-placement-on-your-pedalboard/ AMZ-FX] for notes on where to place compressors in your effects chain.

== Phase Shifters ==
[[:Category:Phasers]]
For general information on phase shifters, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/phasers/phase.html Technology Of Phase Shifters and Flangers]" article by R.G. Keen.

====The Univibe and its workalikes ====
[[:Category:Univibe]]

== Flangers ==
[[:Category:Flangers]]

For general information on flangers, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/phasers/phase.html Technology Of Phase Shifters and Flangers]" article by R.G. Keen.

for a good article on songs that use a flanger, see [http://www.sourceaudio.net/blog/post/the-top-10-greatest-flange-effect-recordings-of-all-time/ www.sourceaduio.net]

== Chorus ==
[[:Category:Chorus]]

== Tremolo ==
[[:Category:Tremolo]]

== Equalizers ==
[[:Category:Equalizers and toneshapers]]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==RunOffGroove_MrEQ Run Off Groove's Mr. EQ]

== Octave Pedals ==
* [[Tycobrahe Octavia]]
* [[Green Ringer]]

== Bit Crushers ==
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~cwbarth/Nyquist/NyquistENV.gif Nyquist Aliaser]
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~cwbarth/Nyquist/ Extreme 8-bit-ish Sounds]

== Buffers / Splitters / Effects Loopers / Blenders ==
[[Category:Effect blenders]]

== Echo / Delay ==
[[:Category:Delay]]

== Wah Pedals ==
[[:Category:Wah]]
For general information on wah pedals, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/wahpedl/wahped.htm Technology Of Wah Pedals]" article by R.G. Keen.

Andreas Moller has comprehensive instructions on modifying wah pedals on his [http://stinkfoot.se/articles/modifications stinkfoot.se] site as does Paul Marossy at his [http://www.diyguitarist.com DIYguitarist.com] site and Stuart Castledine at the [http://www.wah-wah.co.uk/ wah-wah] site.

See also the [http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WAH-ARCHIVE_/WAH-SCHEMATICS/Wah_Comparisons.gif.html comparison of different wah pedals].

== Envelope Filters and Auto Wahs ==

For general information, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/ECFtech/ecftech.htm Technology of Auto-Wahs / Envelope-Controlled Filters]" article by R.G. Keen.

== Volume Pedals ==
* [[Anderton Volume Pedal]]

== Amps ==
[[:Category:Amplifiers]]

== Cab Simulators ==
[[:Category:Cabinet simulators]]

== Power Supplies ==
[[:Category:Power supplies]]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==Power_Supplies Misc Power Supplies]

== Leslie Speakers ==
Admittedly not a pedal, but a popular thing to plug a guitar into.
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==Leslie DIYS Wiki Leslie Page]

== Related Misc Projects ==
====== Condenser Mics ======
* [http://www.christianmusicweb.com/microphones/mic_project.html DIY Condenser Mic]
* [http://scotthelmke.com/alice-mic.html Scott Helmke's well regarded Alice Mic]
====== E-bow ======
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==34264 Pics and Schematic]
====== Scholz Rockman X100 ======
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==40856.0 Scans of the REV10 board with mods.]

== DIY Boxes, Mixers ==
''' Simple DIY box using op amps '''
* [http://colomar.com/Shavano/intro_opamp2.html Simple op amp DIY box]

== Bass Guitar Effects==
''' Bazz Fuss '''
* [http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html Building a Bazz Fuss]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==32572 Bazz Fuss Basics]

''' Gruntbox '''
* [http://ampage.org/hammer/files/Gruntbox.zip Schematic and Clip]

''' Paralooper (Bass FX loop) '''
* [[Paralooper]]

Fat Boost

2011-10-05T09:21:22Z

Egasimus:

== Schematic ==
''None''

== Links ==
''None''

== Gallery ==
=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg258252#msg258252 Built by jc] ===
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jabigailamps/Images/fb_pedal.jpg
[[Category:Boosters]]

Tube Screamer

2011-10-05T09:21:11Z

Egasimus:

''From [http://www.analogman.com analogman.com]''

An Ibanez Tube Screamer is an overdrive/distortion pedal that is mild compared to many, but allows the true sound of the guitar and player's technique to come through. The most popular use of a tube screamer is to push a tube amp to make it overdrive more, but they sound good through almost anything.

== Schematic ==
* [http://www.muzique.com/schem/ts808.gif AMZ]
* [http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxtech.gif Geofex]

== Links ==
* [http://www.analogman.com/tshist.htm AnalogMan's Tube Screamer History] Extensive history of the Tube Screamer line and all it's variants.
* [http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxtech.htm Geofex: The Technology of the Tube Screamer] A section-by-section rundown of the TS.
* [http://www.bteaudio.com/articles/TSS/TSS.html Tube Screamer®’s Secret] Analysis of the TS clipping circuit.
* [http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=90&Itemid=118 General Guitar Gadgets] TS-808 build instructions w/PCB.
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ibanez_Tube_Screamer Wikipedia]

== Gallery ==
Click on the links to view the original forum posts.

=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg258126#msg258126 Built by free electron] ===

http://www.herby.kielce.pl/~piter/bonus/fx/jhts12.jpg

----
=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg258252#msg258252 Built by jc] ===

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jabigailamps/Images/ts_pedal.jpg

----

=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg279714#msg279714 Built by KORGULL] ===

http://mysite.verizon.net/nightside.studio/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/tubescreamer3.jpg

{{Ibanez}}
{{Maxon}}
[[Category:Overdrive]]
[[Category:Boosters]]

Orange Booster

2011-10-05T09:21:02Z

Egasimus:

== Overview ==
''None''

== Schematic ==
''None''

== Links ==
''None''

== Gallery ==
=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg258240#msg258240 Built by Nikolay] ===
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/Naudio/OrangeBooster2.jpg

{{N-Audio}}
[[Category:Boosters]]

PRL Booster

2011-10-05T09:20:50Z

Egasimus:

''From [http://www.herby.kielce.pl/~piter/hexe/prl_eng.htm Hexe's site]''

Treble/Mid Boost based on germanium transistor

== Schematic ==
''None''

== Links ==
''None''

== Gallery ==
=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg258126#msg258126 Built by free electron] ===
http://www.herby.kielce.pl/~piter/bonus/fx/prl5.jpg

[[Category:Boosters]]

Sparkle Boost

2011-10-05T09:20:43Z

Egasimus:

''Paraphrased from Andy at Dragonfly FX:''

This is a nice little boost I designed...it uses ideas from several other boosts, is super easy to build, has a low parts count, and most of all, SOUNDS GREAT ! With the gain knob set low, it gives a nice clean boost...with it set higher, it gets a nice overdriven boost !!! I'll probably build some for sale, but you guys can build it yourself and save CASH!!!

I'm not exactly set on the name yet (too close to the Sparkledrive name for my taste, but I had to name it something :-)

== Schematic ==
* [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/Dragonfly-FX-Schematics-%21/SPARKLE_BOOST Dragonfly's DIYS Gallery]

== Links ==
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=28818.0 New BOOSTER for ya !!!!] The original discussion thread on DIYS
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29789 Setting the trimpot bias on the SparkleBoost]

== Gallery ==
=== [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg258199#msg258199 Built by JerryP] ===
http://www.htemailer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/sparkleboost.jpg

[[Category:Boosters]]

ROG Tremolo

2011-10-05T09:19:13Z

Egasimus: Created page with "{{RunOffGroove}} Category:Tremolo"

{{RunOffGroove}}
[[Category:Tremolo]]

Pedal-specific info

2011-10-05T09:18:46Z

Egasimus:

'''I'm adding these as I have time, grabbing photos from the photo page and overviews from whereever I can get them. Any help is ''greatly'' appreciated. - Dave_B'''

== Boosters ==
[[:Category:Boosters]]
* [[AMZ Mosfet Booster]]
* [[BMF Fat Bastard]]
* [[Fat Boost]]
* [[Fetzer Valve]]
* [[Hog's Foot Bass Booster]] by [[Electro-Harmonix]]
* [[Ibanez Tube Screamer]]
* [[May Queen]] by [[RunOffGroove]]
* [[Orange Booster]]
* [[PRL Booster]]
* [[Rangemaster]]
* [[Sparkle Boost]] by [[Dragonfly FX]]

== Overdrives ==
[[:Category:Overdrive]]
* [[Colorsound Overdriver]] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/ColOvr.mp3 - Overdriver MP3 sound sample]
* [http://generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?Itemid==55 General Guitar Gadget's Blue Magic]
* [[Ampeg Scrambler]]
* [http://diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==25929 Fooltone] The pdf on page one is gone, but a good link to the schematic is on page two.
* [[Hotcake]]

== Distortion ==
[[:Category:Distortion]]
* [[Big Muff]] by [[Electro-Harmonix]]. Several versions of the BMP are here.
* [[Harmonic Percolator]] by [[Interfax]]
* [[Brown Sound In A Box II]]
* [[Dr. Boogey]] - Emulation of Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Solo Head

==== Aron Nelson ====
:''' Shaka Express ''' -- Hi-gain distortion with mid control.
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/ShakaExpress.pdf Shaka Express Schematic PDF] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/ExpressSim.mp3 - Sound Sample]

:''' Booster 2.5''' FET overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/booster25.JPG Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/boost25.mp3 - Sound Sample]

:''' Shaka HV''' Higher Voltage Overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/shakahv.jpg Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/hv30.mp3 - 30 volts low to medium drive sample] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/hv30UP.mp3 - 30 volts Hi-drive sample]

:'''Shaka Braddah 3''' Op amp->FET overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/shaka3.jpg Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/sb3AMP.mp3 - SB3->amp Sound Sample]

:'''Shaka Tube''' Low-voltage op amp->12AX7 overdrive
:* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==18369.0 Schematics] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/shakaTubeDemo.mp3 - Sound Sample]

==== Joe Davisson circuits ====
:''' Obsidian ''' -- Metal distortion with a BMP tone control.
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/obsidian.html Schematic]
:''' Vulcan '''
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/vulcan.html Schematic] [http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/sounds/Vulcan.mp3 - MP3 sound sample]
:''' Blackfire ''' --
:* [http://diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/pedals/blackfire.html Schematic]

==== CD4049 circuits: TSF, Red Llama, EH Hot Tubes, Hot Harmonics ... ====
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==45084.0 4049 distortion + opamp]

==== Insane and Novelty Distortion Circuits ====
''' Uglyface '''
* [http://home-wrecker.com/uglyface.html Building An Uglyface]

''' Skyripper ''' -- Quite Possibly The World's Greatest Fuzz
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/SkyripperSCHEM6-24.jpg Schematic]
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/Skyripper!picture.jpg Example build]
:* [http://sounds.ampage.org/files/NewRip1.mp3 MP3 sample]

==== NVN Joe Gagan Fuzz Schematics ====
* ''' Bronto Boost ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Bronto_Boostv01.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv3.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/BrontoBoostv4.sized.gif]
* ''' Buffer ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/buff.sized.gif]
* ''' Decade ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Decade.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DecadePotDiagram.sized.gif]
* ''' Dino Drive ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoDrive.sized.gif]
* ''' Dino Fuzz Booster ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoFuzzBooster1.sized.gif]
* ''' Dinosaur Fuzz ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoFuzzGainPotMod.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinosaurFuzz_v2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinosaurFuzzv1.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/DinoToneMod.sized.gif]
* ''' Easy Face ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacev1.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacev2.sized.gif] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewBlendCap.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewGain_Mod.sized.jpg] [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZFacewSwitchCap.sized.jpg]
* ''' Easy Ripper ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/EZRipper.jpg]
* ''' GT Fuz ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/GTFuzz.sized.jpg]
* ''' Input Bias Mod ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/InputBiasMod.jpg]
* ''' Lefty Idiot Wah ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/LeftyIdiotWah.gif]
* ''' Nitro Burner ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Nitroburner.sized.jpg]
* ''' Meterless Nitro Burner ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/NitroburnerNo_Meter.sized.gif]
* ''' Skyripper 1 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv1.sized.gif]
* ''' Skyripper 2 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv2.sized.jpg]
* ''' Skyripper 3 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Skyripperv3.sized.jpg]
* ''' Tape Measure Boost ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TapeMeasureBoost.gif]
* ''' Tarpit Melt Down 2''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TarpitMeltdownv2.sized.gif]
* ''' Tarpit Melt Down 3 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/TarpitMeltdownv3.sized.gif]
* ''' Tone Dog 1 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Tone_Dog1.sized.gif]
* ''' Tone Dog 2 ''' [http://aronnelson.com/gallery/albums/J-Gagan-NVN-Schematics/Tonedog2.sized.gif]

== Compressors ==
[[:Category:Compressors]]

Also see [http://www.muzique.com/news/compressor-placement-on-your-pedalboard/ AMZ-FX] for notes on where to place compressors in your effects chain.

== Phase Shifters ==
[[:Category:Phasers]]
For general information on phase shifters, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/phasers/phase.html Technology Of Phase Shifters and Flangers]" article by R.G. Keen.

====The Univibe and its workalikes ====
[[:Category:Univibe]]

== Flangers ==
[[:Category:Flangers]]

For general information on flangers, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/phasers/phase.html Technology Of Phase Shifters and Flangers]" article by R.G. Keen.

for a good article on songs that use a flanger, see [http://www.sourceaudio.net/blog/post/the-top-10-greatest-flange-effect-recordings-of-all-time/ www.sourceaduio.net]

== Chorus ==
[[:Category:Chorus]]

== Tremolo ==
* [[Tiny Tremolo]] - 555 IC based design
* [[Tremulus Lune]] - Opamp design.
* [[EA Tremolo]] - Transistor based design
* [[EH Pulsar]] - Opamp and transistor based.
* [[Tap Tempo Tremolo]] - Taylor Livingston
* [[ROG Tremolo]] - Run Off Grove
* [[Hearthrob]] - Smooth transistor based tremolo
* [[Tremulous Bear]] - Small Bear Electronics

== Equalizers ==
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==RunOffGroove_MrEQ Run Off Groove's Mr. EQ]

== Octave Pedals ==
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==Tycobrahe_Octavia Tycobrahe Octavia]
* [[Green Ringer]]

== Bit Crushers ==
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~cwbarth/Nyquist/NyquistENV.gif Nyquist Aliaser]
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~cwbarth/Nyquist/ Extreme 8-bit-ish Sounds]

== Buffers / Splitters / Effects Loopers / Blenders ==
[[Category:Effect blenders]]

== Echo / Delay ==
[[:Category:Delay]]

== Wah Pedals ==
[[:Category:Wah]]
For general information on wah pedals, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/wahpedl/wahped.htm Technology Of Wah Pedals]" article by R.G. Keen.

Andreas Moller has comprehensive instructions on modifying wah pedals on his [http://stinkfoot.se/articles/modifications stinkfoot.se] site as does Paul Marossy at his [http://www.diyguitarist.com DIYguitarist.com] site and Stuart Castledine at the [http://www.wah-wah.co.uk/ wah-wah] site.

See also the [http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WAH-ARCHIVE_/WAH-SCHEMATICS/Wah_Comparisons.gif.html comparison of different wah pedals].

== Envelope Filters and Auto Wahs ==

For general information, see the "[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/ECFtech/ecftech.htm Technology of Auto-Wahs / Envelope-Controlled Filters]" article by R.G. Keen.

== Volume Pedals ==
* [[Anderton Volume Pedal]]

== Amps ==
[[:Category:Amplifiers]]

== Cab Simulators ==
[[:Category:Cabinet simulators]]

== Power Supplies ==
[[:Category:Power supplies]]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==Power_Supplies Misc Power Supplies]

== Leslie Speakers ==
Admittedly not a pedal, but a popular thing to plug a guitar into.
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title==Leslie DIYS Wiki Leslie Page]

== Related Misc Projects ==
====== Condenser Mics ======
* [http://www.christianmusicweb.com/microphones/mic_project.html DIY Condenser Mic]
* [http://scotthelmke.com/alice-mic.html Scott Helmke's well regarded Alice Mic]
====== E-bow ======
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==34264 Pics and Schematic]
====== Scholz Rockman X100 ======
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==40856.0 Scans of the REV10 board with mods.]

== DIY Boxes, Mixers ==
''' Simple DIY box using op amps '''
* [http://colomar.com/Shavano/intro_opamp2.html Simple op amp DIY box]

== Bass Guitar Effects==
''' Bazz Fuss '''
* [http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html Building a Bazz Fuss]
* [http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic==32572 Bazz Fuss Basics]

''' Gruntbox '''
* [http://ampage.org/hammer/files/Gruntbox.zip Schematic and Clip]

''' Paralooper (Bass FX loop) '''
* [[Paralooper]]